Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Echo Rock - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of the Bulge T 
Cherrie Pie T 
Cherry Bomb T 
Cole-Evans T 
Double Dip T 
Eff Four T 
Falcon and The Snowman, The T 
Fall from Grace T 
Forbidden Paradise T 
Gone in 60 Seconds T 
Heart and Sole T 
Highway 62 T 
Legolas T 
Love and Rockets T 
Minute Man T 
Quick Draw McGraw T 
Respect The Pouch S 
Stichter Quits T 
Stick to What T 
Team Slug (aka Cliff Pounder) T 
Ten Conversations at Once T 
Too Bold to Bolt T 
Tooth Beaver T 
Trough, The T 
Try Again T 

Double Dip 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Chris Gonzalez and Mona Stahl, October 1973
Page Views: 7,460
Submitted By: C Miller on Jun 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (176)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climbing out of the shadows.

Description 

Highly popular, Double Dip is a fun, somewhat polished and fairly runout climb up a lieback flake to dished-out face near the left side of the main Echo Slab. Be aware the route wanders a fair bit to seek out the lowest angled possibility up the face and runouts of 20' or so are the norm.

There's a two bolt belay on a flat area next to a dike at the top and the descent is down ramps and slabs to the climber's left. Three stars out of five.

Location 

The obvious flake to face on the left side of the face.

Protection 

5 bolts, gear to 4", 2 bolt anchor (all bolts are 3/8")


Photos of Double Dip Slideshow Add Photo
Single dippin' as the sun goes down. <br /> <br />February 2008
Single dippin' as the sun goes down. February 200...
Echo Rock - West Face Left
BETA PHOTO: Echo Rock - West Face Left
Aerili on "Double Dip". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Aerili on "Double Dip". Photo by Blitzo.
Clipping the second bolt
Clipping the second bolt
Anne liebacking the flake on "Double Dip," February, 1986.
Anne liebacking the flake on "Double Dip,&quo...
getting ready to place the one supplemental piece.  A #4 works well, and can be bumped up as you go... It'd probably pry the whole flake off if you actually fell on it though.
getting ready to place the one supplemental piece....
Gary leading Double Dip; February 1986.
Gary leading Double Dip; February 1986.
Second Clip relief starting off the top of the flake
Second Clip relief starting off the top of the fla...
Double the fun on Double Dip
Double the fun on Double Dip
.
.
good beta about the #3 cam in the flake
good beta about the #3 cam in the flake
At the right time of the morning the light is just right to see all the "holds"
At the right time of the morning the light is just...
'Pooner' closing in on "The Dip"
'Pooner' closing in on "The Dip"
Contemplating the first Dip on "Double Dip".
Contemplating the first Dip on "Double Dip&qu...
Ron following Double Dip; keeping your feet outside the crack is easier than trying to off-width the thing for sure.
Ron following Double Dip; keeping your feet outsid...
Anne following Double Dip on a cold February morning, 1986.
Anne following Double Dip on a cold February morni...
Ron following Double Dip; the bolts are a bit spaced on this route so just stay sharp and you should be A.O.K.!!
Ron following Double Dip; the bolts are a bit spac...
Moving to second bolt.  You can either go in the dip or around, both ways are fun.
BETA PHOTO: Moving to second bolt. You can either go in the d...

Comments on Double Dip Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 3, 2014
By Brian Reynolds
Nov 4, 2002

What a fabulous route!! For protection, the flake will take a #3 or #3.5 camalot, preferably with a sling or draw to reduce drag. Other than that, don't bother bringing up anything but draws. There are five bolts on the route, plus a two bolt anchor. 4 stars out of 5 (or 3 out of 3)
By Mike Epke
From: Denver, CO
Mar 16, 2003

Great route on very slabby rock. I believe there are only four bolts; however, plus the piece of gear you can place behind the flake. Awesome route.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jul 12, 2003

As I stated elsewhere, a cam is not a must but certainly a smart move. #3 camalot as suggested in the flake works fine. It is a very enjoyable, fun route and I highly suggest it for the intermediate leader due to the runouts. Others might do better to second or top rope.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Sep 2, 2003

This was my sons second lead and he did it well. It is a good one for beginners to start on and it also is just one hell of a fun route regardless of the grade. On a stupid dad note, as he was setting up for me to second, I decided to solo it. Now that is not the stupid part. The stupid part is I forgot he would soon be throwing the rope and as I got near the third bolt...........wishhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh and Oh! Oh! as most of it caught me and just about threw me for a certain head banger. This type of behavior and stupidity I do not reccomend. But for myself, I'll probably do something similar soon enough. Too many in the 60's,70's,80's and all the way to the begining of the 90's. "Brain meltdown". Next!!!!!!!!!!!
By Dynomight510
Sep 12, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Bring pro to 4" for the flake unless you want to run it out to the second bolt. The climbing 'ON' the flake is easier than 5.6. If you fall before reaching the second bolt, you will deck. If you choose to climb the flake like an offwidth(?!)it's much harder.

Classic easy slab clibming

Solid for the grade
By Brian Reynolds
Sep 15, 2003

People are always talking about groundfall on this climb -- the only way there's any danger of that is if you only use the bolts. As you can see from the first action photo down below, the entire flake is very easily protectable with large cams (#3 or #3.5 Camalots work great), and you can reach the second bolt easily while standing on top of the flake.
By Graham Roff
Mar 21, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Was the first bolt there originally? It seems unnecessary as one more easy move puts you at the bottom of the flake where solid gear can be placed.Definitely one of the most fun slab routes for the grade.
By Randy
Mar 21, 2004

The 1st bolt was added many years after the route was originally done (but has been there for a long time too). I my opinion it is totally unecessary. But in light of the fact that it is a very easy climb and no one is really complaining about it, perhaps it is better to leave well enough alone.
By GoBotRocker
From: Spfld, Ma
Apr 29, 2004

Another fun route. We had the pleasure of meeting a Swarm of Bee's as they did a drive - by, while we were packing up after the climb. They Buzzed by two climber's and kept going without any incident's.
By Michael D. Thompson
Sep 20, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Fun Route! a great one to start the day.
By Bo Johnston
Feb 6, 2005

I didn't think placing gear in the crack was very necessary, although not a bad idea if you're just starting out in the sport. A fun route well worth climbing.
By Jason Shatek
Apr 7, 2005

This is a very fun route. I would throw something into the flake on the way up. You'll deck for sure if you don't make the next bolt. I threw in a #5 friend, but the flake will take several different sizes. I was also able to place a yellow alien to the left and up after the second bolt. The route is pretty easy but be sure you trust your feet cuz there isn't many hand holds on this climb!
By Kellen Holt
Dec 31, 2005
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A #3 Camalot and a #10 Trango flexcam protected the flake just fine. The moves off the flake are stout, but not impossible for the grade. Definitely not sport bolted at the top, but the higher you go, the easier the grade.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 16, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

A rare bolted 5.6 line in Joshua Tree.
By 46and2
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 11, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

EXCELLENT route but I would highly recommend throwing in a cam (3.5 or 4") into the wide crack on your way up as the second bolt is way the hell up there. Although typical slab, stay sharp on the slab above as the bolts are slightly spaced and a fall would not be that enjoyable. Two bolts for anchors up on ledge for belay and then walk off to the North.
By Mark L
Apr 30, 2007

If you are not used to josh friction and leading 5.7 or less you might want to have someone else lead if like me you get psyched out easy. Getting up to the bolt above the flake is straight forward and easier than 5.5 I think. I found the head game started at getting into the depression. That move seemed quite technical and felt psychologically more like a 5.7 and a little tenuous. A fall would have caused some nice scrapes for sure. I may just not have seen the move however.

After the depression, getting to the next bolt (up and left) required some time as well to see the feet, and played with my head a little. After that next bolt the feet and angle become easier. It could be that over the years this climb just gets more and more polished but the rating never goes up.
By Gary Schenk
Mar 3, 2008

Fun route. We did it on a fine Saturday in February. Echo Rock was incredibly empty! No lines for Double Dip, or Stichter Quits.
By Brian Hench
From: Costa Mesa, CA
May 12, 2008

For what it's worth you can get a marginal Yellow TCU in a shallow crack before the third bolt. I would not want to fall on it, but it would be better than nothing.
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Jun 2, 2009

The crux clip is height dependent. Had my heart racing before and after that last bolt. Exciting!
By Bryan Davenport
From: 29palms
Feb 15, 2010

This has to be higher than 80'. Used my 60m Mammut and had to rappel down to the top of the flake to reset. Used a cam and a couple hexes in the flake. Great lead.
By hyadventure
From: Santa Ana
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

The flake takes #4 Camalots at the bottom and #3 towards the top. Between bolts 2 and 3 there’s a placement for a #.3 Camalot to the left which will protect the crux move. If you miss the clip on the forth bolt you're toast!! You’ll roll and slide down the slab for at least 30’. The climb is 120+
By Rodger Raubach
Sep 8, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Nice climb; bring a couple of cams (which I didn't have back in the '80s when I first climbed it!). High quality climb.
Added as an afterthought: I second Randy's comments about DON'T MESS WITH THE BOLTS!
By Jim Amidon
Oct 28, 2011

NO FREAKIN WAY IN HELL THIS IS 5.6

I've led Walk on the Wild Side,

Run for You Life,

No way this is 5.6
By Patrick Sanan
From: Lugano, Switzerland
Nov 19, 2011

Lots of fun! The climbing is consistent over a good distance, lots of places to rest, and the bolts seem reasonably spaced (I only used one piece of gear, a #2 cam behind the big flake as high as I could reach before starting up it), but it still feels serious when you're at my level (just getting into leading 5.6-5.7 leading).
By Jim21
Mar 31, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Another great lead climb similar to stitcher quits on the same slab. Definitely be comfortable climbing on the run out sections since once can easily be freaked out by them. Walk off is not nearly as bad as for stitcher quits.
By The Ruin-er
From: CA
Jun 12, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

five quick draws and a number 3 camalot and your set this route is too much fun, especially when you do this then sticher quits. the combo is a good time
By Todd Cook
From: Hawthorne, CA
Dec 23, 2012

Be careful about the walk off, if it has rained recently (it's rare in JTree, but it does happen). I led this on 12/19/2012 and although the face was dry and creaky as usual, the backside walk off is in the shade and we found the descent slabs rather sopping wet. If the night had been really cold, it probably would have been icy. Now, of course, Donini's rule is, don't rap if there's a good walk off, however, here, watch the weather and those winter temps. 50 degrees may be the perfect temperature for rubber for slab climbing, however everything goes to hell with a wet descent at 32 degrees.

For what it's worth, I prefer throwing in Camalots: 3,4,5 behind the flake. And at the double dip, to the left, I put in a #2 yellow metolius, mostly for psychological protection. Of course the real run out is getting to the last bolt; looks like 30 feet, probably is only 20 feet, but if you fall, it's going to feel like 40 feet.
By Mikie Eaton
From: Grand Junction, CO
Jan 8, 2013

If you plan on top roping, a 70m rope was still short unless your belaying from the top of the flake
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 29, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Did this route for the umpteenth time yesterday, which was Thanksgiving and no-one was there! I'm going to re-assert my belief that this is a classic, almost perfect, tremendous fun and a rite of passage for any 5.6 leader at Joshua Tree.

BTW For pity's sake don't TR this route, what a travesty...
By Howard.
From: Irvine, CA
Feb 4, 2014

Should have checked this page instead of relying purely on Vogel's Classic climbs guide. Figured the book to be informative about a popular route like this, but I wound up noting the run-outs while already on route. Also, there are spinners, too. Ah, well.
By Randy
Feb 7, 2014

The Classics Guide does state for routes of Echo Rock:

Safety Advisory Be aware that these routes are not sport bolted and may be considered run out by today’s standards.

But, an additional note of this in the Double Dip description will be added to the second edition.
By Lzpup
From: santee, ca
Apr 3, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Totally fun, dropping a cam in the flake made be feel better, although i should have stuck it farther back since the rope ran over it once i clipped the bolt above. Anchors are wayyyy back.. bring a long rope if you are going to TR , used a 70m no problem (with long anchor).