Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Dairy Queen Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Airy Scene T 
Bill's Nuts T 
Biological Clock T 
Chili Dog T 
Date Shake T 
Dilly Bar T 
Double Decker T 
Frosty Cone T 
Hot Fudge T 
I Forgot to Have Babies TR 
Mr. Misty Kiss T 
Nuts and Cherries T 
Possum Pie T 
Scrumdillyishus T 
Squirrel Attack T 

Double Decker 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 829
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Mar 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

Difficult to place protection and fairly runout. This climb may be better left as a toprope. Climb up to a double crack system that doesn't quite touch bottom. This climb is very difficult for 5.6. Anchor is set with large cams.

Protection 

Nuts, small cams


Comments on Double Decker Add Comment
Show which comments
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 6, 2009

Climbed this yesterday, and warnings should be more precise. This is 5.8, and somewhat complex even at that grade. Inexperienced leaders beware, you may find yourself dogged from delays at certain moves or gear placements and running out of strength quickly. It's by no means a bad climb though and fortunately you can always bail and finish on cracks to the right if you get stuck. :-)
By Donno
From: Newport Beach
Apr 3, 2010

Just led this 10 years after backing off. Dead vertical but not hard to protect; many small cams went in. It's a little runout at the very top after a small stopper placement, but the difficulty eases off. Exciting lead for a 5.8 leader.