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By Crotch Robbins
Dec 4, 2012

Put in something more permanent than a bolt, like a chiseled out nut placement halfway up the death slab. How you gonna chop that?


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By Tradman
From Lake Forest
Dec 5, 2012

Just do it on lead and should be OK. Nobody chops Trad style bolts.


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Dec 5, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Crotch Robbins wrote:
Put in something more permanent than a bolt, like a [couple sticks of dynamite.]


Fixed yer comment and controversy over an 80' pile of Kitty Litter for ya.

Crotchety wrote:
How you gonna chop that?


Dyno Might!

Tradman wrote:
I when I did last year there where no bolts. It could use one down low to make it more popular.


Cuz "more popular" is what needs to happen with one of the most popular 5.7s in North America.


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By Guy Keesee
From Moorpark, CA
Dec 5, 2012
Big Boulder, just a bit downhill from Temple of Kali. Alabama Hills, CA.

Make it a sport climb.

All of them, 6,000 total, no one should DIE.


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By Tradman
From Lake Forest
Dec 5, 2012

JT is total Trad. Ground up only.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Dec 5, 2012
Colonel Mustard

I feel like I just walked into a room where everybody is holding each others' dick. AWK.WARD.

A little too much *wink wink*, *nudge nudge*, *slurp slurp* going on for it to be just an innocent sleepover party.


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By Tradman
From Lake Forest
Dec 5, 2012

I don't think thats mustard on you face colonel.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Dec 5, 2012

Looks like we finally have a local consensus after a few meetings here in JT.

I'm going to replace the bottom bolt before the crack, and add a Mussy Hook anchor about 4' up the crack portion so that you don't have to carry an extra cam and those who figure out they are in over their head can just lower off the mussy hooks and not have to leave gear or try to downclimb or create a big cluster while everyone else is waiting to get on the route.

The mussys are beefy, should last at least twenty years, even with the hordes of defeated would-be heroes bailing off them a dozen times per weekend.


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By Tim McCabe
Dec 5, 2012

Tradman wrote:
I when I did last year there where no bolts. It could use one down low to make it more popular.


Yes, Trad climbing would be more popular if there were more bolts down low.


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Dec 5, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Will S wrote:
Looks like we finally have a local consensus after a few meetings here in JT.


I really think you should reconsider the dynamite idea.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Dec 5, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

is this climb in question actually bolted at all? if so that is a shame...it looks like a beauty and totally safe without them!


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By Reginald McChufferton
Dec 5, 2012

Ben Brotelho wrote:
is this climb in question actually bolted at all? if so that is a shame...it looks like a beauty and totally safe without them!


You didn't read the whole thread then I presume?


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Dec 5, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

No...I didn't feel like it would be worth my time. Haha. But it's sickening to hear about such a nice looking climb getting bolted just to protect people who aren't competent or who lack sound enough judgment to stay off something that they can't do.

Are there really going to hooks installed halfway so people can bail if necessary to alleviate the congo line waiting for the climb? Sarcasm is mighty hard to detect through this particular font...

Am I unnecessarily worrying myself about something that has nothing to do with me?


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By Tradman
From Lake Forest
Dec 5, 2012

Ben we got it covered. Bolt down low put in on lead, Trad style should do the trick. It will still be a Trad route, everybody wins.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Dec 6, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

Just piqued my curiosity. Sounds reasonable!


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Dec 6, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Tradman wrote:
It could use one down low to make it more popular.

tradman wrote:
Ben we got it covered. Bolt down low put in on lead, Trad style should do the trick. It will still be a Trad route, everybody wins.


I'm with Ben. I can't tell for the life of me whether or not you're being serious.

By "got it covered" do you mean dumbing it down for the masses? Do you really think that a fixed convenience piece meant for lowering in case someone gets themselves in over his head on a one-pitch 5.7 is "trad style?"

Or, more likely, are you trolling?


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Dec 6, 2012
Sure, I can belay

Ben and Mark, you guys can relax. The Ethics Committee of the Concerned Climbers of Boulder group is meeting next week. I'll put Double Cross on the agenda and we can decide what the guys in JTree should do about the gear on this route.
Locker, are you going to be there?


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Dec 6, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

Mark E Dixon wrote:
Ben and Mark, you guys can relax. The Ethics Committee of the Concerned Climbers of Boulder group is meeting next week.


I'm not in Boulder. And Ben's in upstate New York apparently. But since you're proudly displaying that you're in Boulder, would you send us the minutes? Thanks.

I think you were attempting to be funny, but I also think you just introduced yourself to the kettle as a white dude from somewhere other than Boulder. Which is funny in its own right. :)


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Dec 6, 2012
El Chorro

This thread just gets better and better. Can we make it to 20 pages? It shouldn't be too hard to come up with 3 more pages of nonsense regarding a route that most of us have no interest in ever climbing.


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By Ben Brotelho
From Albany, NY
Dec 6, 2012
Epic free solo with a pack on

But seriously, the attitude that anyone deserves to be able to climb something when they're not competent to do it without getting hurt is going to ruin beautiful areas like Joshua Tree that I would like to someday visit!

Let people get hurt, as long as the NPS doesn't close down climbing in the area then I couldn't care less. It seems like hundreds of people do the route with no issue, so why would anyone advocate a bolt? Climbing is dangerous, and "dumbing it down for the masses" as Marc puts it is disgusting! It's not even the sight of such a bolt that pisses me off, it's more of the principle that many seem to have that we should permanently alter gorgeous places and things for nothing other than convenience.

Why not chop a step into the beginning of the climb to make the clip more safe? I'm sure some 'gumbie' will get hurt before making the clip!

I think it boils down to an respect for nature, which many climbers seem to lack, sadly.

Hopefully this opens up a whole new can o' worms!


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By MojoMonkey
Dec 6, 2012

Ben Brotelho wrote:
Why not chop a step into the beginning of the climb to make the clip more safe?


Motion seconded.


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Dec 6, 2012
Colonel Mustard

Most are unaware, but the continental divide also serves as the demarcation for the little known Sarcasm Shield, an obscure offshoot of the Star Wars program implemented by none other than those inglorious military castoffs: The A-Team.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Dec 6, 2012
Sure, I can belay

Ryan Williams wrote:
a route that most of us have no interest in ever climbing.


Yeah, and I heard that the Rangers are going to start charging $17 a day to finance all the bolt removing and replacing too.


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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Dec 6, 2012
Russ

12/5 update. Heard the DC got another one yestereday when a Aussie guy missed the clip on the second bolt. Pretty big bomb with all the rope out and the injuries were significant, but he'll shake them off. Even the bolts can't save everyone.


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By Bryan G
From San Jose
Dec 6, 2012
Puffy jackets and Happy Boulders

IMO DC definitely warrants an "R" rating unless you stick clip the second bolt. Unfortunately a lot of sport climbers show up and don't realize that just because it's bolted, that doesn't mean it's a sport climb!

I think it should either have more bolts added to make it safe, or they should all be chopped to return the climb back to its original state (5.8+ R/X) and it will sink back into obscurity where it won't claim any more victims.


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