By jmeizis
From Colorado Springs, CO
Apr 4, 2011
| Jack Ziegler wrote: Also, they way to do the route safely is to start on the right, climb up, place the number 3, and then traverse over to the crack, not climb the route straight up!
Is this so when the obviously competent noob blows it before reaching the crack they swing into those flakes off to the right instead of a mostly clean fall to the ground that could easily be protected with a pad? I climbed it straight up, don't do what I did, that's straight up crazy! | 
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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Apr 4, 2011
| Snupe wrote: Double Cross has a crux?
And it is currently unprotected. It is a real widow maker. |
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By Russ Walling
From www.FishProducts.com
Apr 6, 2011
| Another victim this weekend. Please God... make it stop! |
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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Apr 7, 2011
| Greg D wrote: Not funny anymore. I'll bite. Are you being serious?
The poor dick nose didn't even know what a camelot was. To his peril. RIP. |
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By Greg D
From Here
Apr 7, 2011
| caughtinside wrote: The poor dick nose didn't even know what a camelot was. To his peril. RIP.
Nice. Sounds like you are well read in mp folklore. Btw, whomever started that dick nose or was it dicknose thread was a real dork. |
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 7, 2011
| A 12ft. aluminum extension ladder will reach almost 20 feet when extended. They are light weight, fit nicely next to your Thule Torpedo box and I have seen fat crack climbers carrying more weight all the way up the climb. Oh, and ladders are trad gear. The FA of Devils Tower involved a ladder. |
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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Apr 7, 2011
| 1Eric Rhicard wrote: The FA of Devils Tower involved a ladder.
And wood pegs! Maybe that's what DC needs to end this controversy.
--Marc |
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Apr 7, 2011
| 1Eric Rhicard wrote: A 12ft. aluminum extension ladder will reach almost 20 feet when extended. They are light weight, fit nicely next to your Thule Torpedo box and I have seen fat crack climbers carrying more weight all the way up the climb. Oh, and ladders are trad gear. The FA of Devils Tower involved a ladder.
| Close up of the start. FYI, that ladder is bomber, welded metal. To tough to kick apart, and to heavy to carry it out. Is this the original?
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Mar 23, 2009
| |
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By J.J
Sep 12, 2011
| Why did this thread stop!? I want to get talking about bolting the start of Dog Leg. That's dangerous stuff! |
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By Ryan Kelly
From work.
Sep 12, 2011
| SirMixALot wrote: Why did this thread stop!? I want to get talking about bolting the start of Dog Leg. That's dangerous stuff!
I realize this is the internet and nothing seems to be off-limits, but lets have a bit of respect. How do you think the friends and family of climbers that have perished on DC would feel if they read this? Dog Leg is perfectly safe and I don't appreciate your attempts at humor. |
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By J.J
Sep 12, 2011
| Ryan Kelly wrote: I realize this is the internet and nothing seems to be off-limits, but lets have a bit of respect. How do you think the friends and family of climbers that have perished on DC would feel if they read this? Dog Leg is perfectly safe and I don't appreciate your attempts at humor.
You're just being a big, fat, ugly troll! |
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By Chris D
From the couch
Sep 13, 2011
| SirMixALot wrote: Why did this thread stop!? I want to get talking about bolting the start of Dog Leg. That's dangerous stuff!
Nevermind Dogleg...what about Double Dogleg? Twice as devious, at least twice as dangerous!
Someone should chop the bolts on Double Cross and put them below the crux on Double Dogleg before someone gets hurt. That crack flares, and getting any gear in it besides a pink tricam is all but impossible!
Bolt it. |
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By Grover
Sep 13, 2011
| There is currently a new bolt on DC, I climbed it the other day and it was great to clip right before the crux. Please dont chop it again who ever is doing it. Without the bolt this climb is definitly rated X |
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By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Sep 13, 2011
| Pizmoe wrote: There is currently a new bolt on DC, I climbed it the other day and it was great to clip right before the crux. Please dont chop it again who ever is doing it. Without the bolt this climb is definitly rated X
Troll? |
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By Ryan Kelly
From work.
Sep 13, 2011
|
I did a background check based on the information in his user profile; I think this guy is legit. |
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By Phil Lauffen
From Louyuppie
Sep 24, 2011
| The reason this bolt keeps being chopped is that some climbers that think they own the rock have decided that there should be no bolt.
The reason the bolt keeps getting added is because some climbers that think they own the rock have decided that the climb should have a bolt.
At some point the real "owners" of the land are going to get fed up with the antics and have the route, crag, or the whole park shut down to climbers. This will happen at some point(whether this year or 20 years down the road), and it is a one way road. There can be no back and forth action. Access will not appear and disappear like this bolt does. As climbers we need to have the maturity to accept we do not own the rock, access is fragile. Leave it alone as it is. Ego is involved on both sides of the equation, and continued action will only have one result that will be unpleasant for both sides. |
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By Chris D
From the couch
Sep 24, 2011
| Phil Lauffen wrote: At some point the real "owners" of the land are going to get fed up with the antics and have the route, crag, or the whole park shut down to climbers.
If the endless bolting and chopping of Double Cross results in the closing of Joshua Tree National Park to climbing, then so be it!
It's time we all step back and take an honest accounting of the situation. The carnage wrought by this widowmaker just isn't worth it.
WAKE UP PEOPLE!!
WHERE WILL IT ALL END?!
Oh...THE HUMANITY!!!
Get your laps in while you can.
The end is near! |
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By toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Sep 24, 2011
| Bolts don't get added and chopped to Dbl Cross;...it's all a big Troll......it's just a silly crack;...if it were in The Valley or Indian Creek....it would never even be looked upon;.......it's Chossuatree....get over yourselves and go climbing...ggod-bye |
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By Chris D
From the couch
Sep 24, 2011
| toddgordon wrote: Chossuatree
This from Mr. Chossuatree FA
I suspect that many of those FA's were bolted on lead with bolts bootied from DC! |
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By Phil Lauffen
From Louyuppie
Sep 24, 2011
| toddgordon wrote: Bolts don't get added and chopped to Dbl Cross;...it's all a big Troll......it's just a silly crack;...if it were in The Valley or Indian Creek....it would never even be looked upon;.......it's Chossuatree....get over yourselves and go climbing...ggod-bye
Hey I'm at work all day and getting paid nothing extra for it. I might as well spray on the proj if I can't climb on a beautiful saturday... |
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By K Weber
Sep 24, 2011
| Phil Lauffen wrote: The reason this bolt keeps being chopped is that some climbers that think they own the rock have decided that there should be no bolt. The reason the bolt keeps getting added is because some climbers that think they own the rock have decided that the climb should have a bolt. At some point the real "owners" of the land are going to get fed up with the antics and have the route, crag, or the whole park shut down to climbers. This will happen at some point(whether this year or 20 years down the road), and it is a one way road. There can be no back and forth action. Access will not appear and disappear like this bolt does. As climbers we need to have the maturity to accept we do not own the rock, access is fragile. Leave it alone as it is. Ego is involved on both sides of the equation, and continued action will only have one result that will be unpleasant for both sides.
LOL
Oh the Double Cross debate sucked in another "SUCKER"!!
Maybe you will get out of the Peoples Republic of Boulder and climb in JTree or other places than Boulder Canyon. |
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By Phil Lauffen
From Louyuppie
Sep 24, 2011
| GrandeCorda wrote: LOL Oh the Double Cross debate sucked in another "SUCKER"!! Maybe you will get out of the Peoples Republic of Boulder and climb in JTree or other places than Boulder Canyon.
But Boulder is the best place to climb. Everybody knows that. Why else would you move here except to sample our fine gyms? |
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By Justin Tomlinson
From Monrovia, CA
Sep 26, 2011
| The thing that gets me is the fact that know one considers the impact all this drilling and chopping has on the rock. Everybody stands up for what they believe is right and yet the rock has a dozen chopped bolts all in the same spot, which sucks aesthetically, plus each time a new bolt is added the rock gets weaker and weaker. I seriously thought that climbers of all people would be more thoughtful.
Disappointed :( |
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By Tradman
From Lake Forest
Dec 4, 2012
| I when I did last year there where no bolts. It could use one down low to make it more popular. |
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