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Dec 23, 2010
Fat Dad wrote:
Go back to the gym and stroke your plastic.


Since I live much closer to the Park (a few miles) than to any climbing gym, how about I go solo your projects instead?
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,274 points
Dec 25, 2010
squeakeasy
14 pages about whether or not to bolt a 5.7/8 CRACK?? at JOSH?? I mean i loove to sportclimb and I'm all for safety, but last I recall this was a pretty secure route following a very prominant CRACK the whole way up. Plain and simple, them there bolts will be chopped, again and again. So don't mar the rock with yo sillyness and let people climb at their own risk like they do every friggin day, all over the world. say no to bolted cracks Colin Brochard
From San Francisco
Joined Apr 29, 2008
133 points
Dec 25, 2010
Merry Christmas to all.....bolt placers and bolt choppers! Joy this holiday to you all and your families. toddgordon
From Joshua Tree, California
Joined Nov 26, 2006
9,777 points
Administrator
Dec 25, 2010
Courtright Reservoir, September 2013
toddgordon wrote:
Merry Christmas to all.....bolt placers and bolt choppers! Joy this holiday to you all and your families.



Thanks TG. Merry Christmas
Adam Stackhouse
Joined Jan 3, 2001
13,500 points
Administrator
Dec 25, 2010
Lichen head. Me, with my usual weatherbeaten, lich...
Alex Whitman wrote:
Nope. Sorry.


spoken like a typical 20 something who has not enough experience in life to balance out hormones. Obviously not all routes have to be G rated, but maybe you should really think about what it would mean if a GF or other loved one cratered and smashed their skull open and what that loss of a life means in comparison to somebody's macho ascent.

By the way, I have no opinion about Double Cross, as I have never even seen it, but rather some peoples imbalanced opinion of the value of lives over "running it out"
M Sprague
From New England
Joined Nov 9, 2006
5,499 points
Dec 25, 2010
aaron hope wrote:
OK - here's a thought. Because the FA, Woody, has stated he is OK with a bolt but will not place one himself (see the first page thread). Here's a course of action: If someone wants a bolt, place one. If someone else doesn't like the bolt, chop it. Then, if you still want a bolt, replace it. Then, if you still don't like it, chop it. Then, if you still want a bolt, replace it... With enough iterations, the community will come to a natural state of equilibrium with either the bolt in, or out, depending on which side is more adamant. For example, if there are more people out there replacing than chopping, then the bolt will persevere until generations pass and the climb has reached a new accepted state. This is kind of how I've seen the bolt issue work itself out in other areas. Just, please, keep the violence contained to within this forum.


Good point Aaron.

Better yet let’s view the bolt in terms of quantum mechanics where it is simultaneously in two states of “existing” and “not existing”. Furthermore, the probability for each state would be based on the percentages of climbers advocating each side of the debate. Like Schrödinger’s cat the reality won’t be determined until you try to clip it, or not. That should satisfy everyone, or nobody.
Kent Pease
From Littleton, Colorado
Joined Feb 13, 2006
118 points
Dec 25, 2010
Bucky
Kent Pease wrote:
Good point Aaron. Better yet let’s view the bolt in terms of quantum mechanics where it is simultaneously in two states of “existing” and “not existing”. Furthermore, the probability for each state would be based on the percentages of climbers advocating each side of the debate. Like Schrödinger’s cat the reality won’t be determined until you try to clip it, or not. That should satisfy everyone, or nobody.


Funny.
But you can't actually clip it Kent, because by measuring it, you are tainting the result.
J. Albers
From Colorado
Joined Jul 11, 2008
2,223 points
Dec 25, 2010
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
J. Albers wrote:
Funny. But you can't actually clip it Kent, because by measuring it, you are tainting the result.

Don't measure it--clip it with your eyes closed.
Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
313 points
Dec 26, 2010
Me fishing for gear on an onsight of Mung.  Photo ...
Then keep climbing higher without knowing whether you clipped a bolt or thin air. It's the only way. Dylan Colon
From Eugene, OR
Joined Jun 21, 2009
284 points
Jan 6, 2011
My kinda simian
Bump. Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Jan 6, 2011
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
Ryan Kelly wrote:
Bump.

There's no bump needed. You do, I'll chop it.
Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
313 points
Jan 6, 2011
profile picture avitard.
Whoa, shit, it a good thing I saw this. I was out there waiting in line a few days ago and this Asian looking guy with some tattoos shows up holding one of the big fricken cordless drills, you now those ones that sometimes you see with a handle off to the side. I could hear the dude talking with his buddy, and the Asian guy sounded like he should have been surfing. Well I didn't make out much of what they were saying other than that surfer-asian-dude's buddy didn't want to wait until the line cleared up, so they left. Don Mares
Joined Jan 6, 2011
5 points
Jan 6, 2011
My kinda simian
Don Mares wrote:
Whoa, shit, it a good thing I saw this. I was out there waiting in line a few days ago and this Asian looking guy with some tattoos shows up holding one of the big fricken cordless drills, you now those ones that sometimes you see with a handle off to the side. I could hear the dude talking with his buddy, and the Asian guy sounded like he should have been surfing. Well I didn't make out much of what they were saying other than that surfer-asian-dude's buddy didn't want to wait until the line cleared up, so they left.


Tattoos, surfer slang, and bolts with reckless abandon. Was this your Asian?

Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Jan 7, 2011
profile picture avitard.
Ryan Kelly wrote:
Tattoos, surfer slang, and bolts with reckless abandon. Was this your Asian?



Looks like it could be him, I didn't get a good look at the tattoo, but it's in the right spot. But the guy in the picture looks stronger and I'd say thinner, than this guy did.
Don Mares
Joined Jan 6, 2011
5 points
Jan 7, 2011
Why would anyone be carrying around a powerdrill as a standard part of their Josh rack? Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Jan 7, 2011
dhayan wrote:
i thought power drills were illegal in national parks


You have to wait for the rare 'Bolter's Moon'
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,896 points
Jan 7, 2011
n cascades
how about instead of adding bolts, we add a sign? something like

"Dear aspiring climber, this route 'Double Cross 5.7' is responsible for numerous injuries and deaths every year. This climb requires adequate skills and knowledge of placing protection while jamming. The rating was established in a time of stouter ratings and may feel much harder. If you are at all unsure of your capabilities, think of your family and come back another time. Consider hiring a professional guide. Happy climbing!"
Jesse Davidson
From san diego, ca
Joined May 30, 2007
71 points
Jan 7, 2011
Black Mountain
I'll chop the sign! Choss Chasin'
From Torrance, CA
Joined Aug 23, 2010
36 points
Jan 8, 2011
How about a label on climbing gear that says climbing is dangerous. Oh wait never mind. Tim McCabe
Joined Oct 15, 2006
156 points
Jan 10, 2011
Tim McCabe wrote:
How about a label on climbing gear that says climbing is dangerous. Oh wait never mind.

Not if you bolt everything into submission.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Jan 10, 2011
My kinda simian
Fat Dad wrote:
Not if you bolt everything into submission.


So, now you're pro-bolt?
Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Jan 10, 2011
Ryan Kelly wrote:
So, now you're pro-bolt?

I guess I should have inserted a 'sarcasm' emoticon.
Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Nov 9, 2007
137 points
Jan 10, 2011
My kinda simian
Fat Dad wrote:
I guess I should have inserted a 'sarcasm' emoticon.


AH HA!


Busted.
Ryan Kelly
From work.
Joined Oct 10, 2006
3,262 points
Feb 17, 2011
ru ro...heading to Jtree in two weeks. Let's see if i'll sac up and try to lead it.....by the way I might need a belay so let me know if you would like to join me in my efforts Francisco Di Poi
From Boulder, CO
Joined Sep 11, 2009
26 points
Feb 17, 2011
Can I really? It would be soooo bitchin to hold your rope while you
"sac up" to fire this death defying 5.7 handcrack. That would be so splitter, brah. I'll start training and get my gri-gri skills in order, don't want to hose your clips.
Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,274 points


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