|Devil's Head Rock
This route can be done as two pitches, but there is no reason not to link them. There is an anchor at mid height, but it is without rings. From the upper anchor, a 70m just reaches the ground (a 60m would not).
Follow a perfect hand crack up right to intercept the "double cracks" which actually become 3 cracks. The steepest part of the lower half was the crux for me. Although a little strenuous, especially where the crack is wider than hands, there are enough options for stemming to keep it casual.
The upper half of the pitch is a bolted squeeze chimney. Work your way up past the first 4 bolts. Crystals and features make it very enjoyable. If you want to suffer, battle straight up through the final bulge (more like 9+). If you want to make things easy, spin around on good footholds and traverse onto the right wall at a horizontal crack. If you are tall enough, you can clip that last oddly located bolt. After a few moves of face climbing, you can step back left and up to the anchor.
This route is on the right half of the wall. Look for a giant, left-facing overhang up high, and it's right under there.... If you head straight up from the old campground, it will be a little to the right. You can't miss these obvious inviting cracks. You can see the bolts on the upper chimney part from the ground as well....
The bottom half is mostly #3 Camalots. There is other stuff available, but I had 3-#3s, so I just bumped em up.... The crack slims to #2s before the first anchor. There is a bolted anchor on the ledge above the lower cracks. 5 bolts lead to the upper anchor.
The first part of the climb.
The lower half of the climb.
Using both cracks.
At the upper anchors.
|By Jay Eggleston|
Aug 16, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
This is a fun climb that has only about a 10-15 minute approach. The first anchor would only be necessary if you have less than a 70m rope, but there is no hardware for a rap or lower on the bolt hangers.