Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Devil's Head Rock
|
Anneliese T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
Arbitrary and Capricious S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
|
|
Dariush of Balanat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crack) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Double Cracks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Eternal Damnation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Forrest-Van Meter Route T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Hidden Agenda S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Not Exactly A Warmup S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
|
|
Paradise in Purgatory S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Summit Chimney T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Three Times a Day S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Time Stands Still S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Time Warp S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Type A Woodpecker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,840 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Roth on Aug 15, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Access Issue: Devil's Head Rock Closure
Details
New as of July 17, 2015:
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
This crag is closed March 1-July 31 for raptor nesting.
New as of July 17, 2015:
The only parts of Devil's Head climbing area that are closed March 1- July 31 every year for peregrine falcon protection are Devils' Head Rock and Recovery Wall.
The new map:
The OLD official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610.
Description
This route can be done as two pitches, but there is no reason not to link them. There is an anchor at mid height, but it is without rings. From the upper anchor, a 70m just reaches the ground (a 60m would not).
Follow a perfect hand crack up right to intercept the "double cracks" which actually become 3 cracks. The steepest part of the lower half was the crux for me. Although a little strenuous, especially where the crack is wider than hands, there are enough options for stemming to keep it casual.
The upper half of the pitch is a bolted squeeze chimney. Work your way up past the first 4 bolts. Crystals and features make it very enjoyable. If you want to suffer, battle straight up through the final bulge (more like 9+). If you want to make things easy, spin around on good footholds and traverse onto the right wall at a horizontal crack. If you are tall enough, you can clip that last oddly located bolt. After a few moves of face climbing, you can step back left and up to the anchor.
Follow a perfect hand crack up right to intercept the "double cracks" which actually become 3 cracks. The steepest part of the lower half was the crux for me. Although a little strenuous, especially where the crack is wider than hands, there are enough options for stemming to keep it casual.
The upper half of the pitch is a bolted squeeze chimney. Work your way up past the first 4 bolts. Crystals and features make it very enjoyable. If you want to suffer, battle straight up through the final bulge (more like 9+). If you want to make things easy, spin around on good footholds and traverse onto the right wall at a horizontal crack. If you are tall enough, you can clip that last oddly located bolt. After a few moves of face climbing, you can step back left and up to the anchor.
Location
This route is on the right half of the wall. Look for a giant, left-facing overhang up high, and it's right under there.... If you head straight up from the old campground, it will be a little to the right. You can't miss these obvious inviting cracks. You can see the bolts on the upper chimney part from the ground as well....
4 Comments