|a. The Uberfall
P1: Start at the Eyebrow crack, climb to a horizontal under the roof and traverse right to a notch in the roof. Pull the roof at the notch. Continue to the Eyebrow belay.
P2: Climb straight up towards the triangle block in the roof above. Step left then back right until you are under the roof. Pull the roof just right of the triangle block. Good and very different in feel from the first pitch.
P1 is harder if you're short.
After pulling the crux, many people choose to rap from the obvious tree rather than continue to the Eyebrow belay.
Normal gunks rack.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 3, 2008
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a
Great excuse to use a #4 Camalot. Fits perfectly in the notch over the roof. Fun to throw for the horizontal from the edge of the roof with an incredibly safe fall onto your big ol cam.
Nov 5, 2008
That notch over the roof is a cool feature. I don't remember what I used to protect that move, but I don't have a #4 Camalot and I know I had bomber gear. So if you don't have a giant cam, don't worry about it. This climb protects well with a normal rack.
BTW, I've seen this crux done at least three different ways - including throwing, as you say. The crux is height related, but I'm able to reach it (I'm 5'8").
From: Wayne, PA
Jun 5, 2010
Got spit off over and over again. At 5'2", I had a tough time throwing. I tried heel hooking, sticking my foot in the crack, took many many lead falls.
|By John Ely|
Nov 20, 2012
Be sure not to miss the second pitch. A little round about but the overhang is interesting.
Mar 6, 2013
Threw my self at this for a while in fall of 2011.... Cant wait to get back at it. Definitely safe falls on the #4