Double Clutch (AKA Chickens Don't Fly)  5.12a R

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  TR: Pete Cleveland FFA: Sol Sepsenwol (AKA Mr. Poultry) 1987 Submitted By:  mr. poultry on Feb 8, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Sol Sepsenwol, as Mr. Poultry, bouldering the star...

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Description 

This is a beautiful, wandering thin face climb between "Black Rib" and the corner, "Man and Superman" first TR'd by Pete Cleveland in the 60's. Double-rope helps. It has two rests, and lots of exciting, sustained climbing between. The protection doesn't show up for the first 25 feet, but there is a good pro from there on. The route starts with an extended RH layback up to some thin finger slots, moves right and up on small footholds to an obvious "ledge" about 10 ft up. It moves back left and across near the corner, where it's possible to drop in a big nut in a crack on "Man and Superman" nearby and rest (11a?R). The route moves straight up, then out right on thin handholds and footholds to a black edge near Black Rib (the 12 crux for me), where a crack takes RP's. Back left to a dyno to the big, RH rough incut (= clutch #1, crux). Traverse left and up the obvious ledges, to gear and rest. Overhanging finish moves up and right with to a wild high lieback, a swing out to a perfect slot in the finish crack which takes RP's, and a careful tippy-toe to the top. I don't know where the second clutch is.

Protection 

1 large wired nut, RPs, #1 cam, double rope. No fixed gear.