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Climb the crack and corner to the first overhang, step left, make a hard high step, then head up to another overhang (crux) to a ledge with a belay/rap tree.
Rappel, or walk off either left to the cliff's end or right via the Uberfall Descent.
Ten feet right of Nosedive at a crack below 2 large roofs and a right-facing corner system about 60 feet up.
Standard Gunks rack.
Start of Double Chin.
Negotiating the first roof
Looking down Double Chin from the rappel tree. Two...
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 5, 2010
Interesting climb. THe first roof is easy to step around, the second roof requires some thoughtful moves to the ledge. Not hard, you just have to find your way.
Jun 21, 2010
I climbed this once years ago, and remember it as awkward and hard-hard-hard for 5.5. I climbed it again yesterday, and - wow, what a hysterically fun, overlooked 5.5!
The top overhang isn't straightforward, but with a little chimneying technique, it's killer fun.
For a less-confident second, be careful to place what will basically be a top anchor *above* the chimney, so that they won't worry about a swing backwards into space - the rap tree isn't ideal as a top anchor.
Jun 11, 2011
Good climb. The second roof is a bit tricky. Watch out for flakes when placing gear on the second roof. I found myself using a hand jam to get passed the second roof. This route is also tricky to clean if your second doesn't climb it. Oh yes I almost forgot a massive spider lives under the first roof. I almost had a heart attack.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Mar 11, 2012
Definitely don't pass this one up!
Jun 9, 2012
Agree with the comments above. Since this route is not real popular, I wasn't expecting much ... then it turned out to be a satisfying lead with interesting moves before the crux, and felt well-protected.
If you bring along followers who are not strong at 5.5 and not so gung-ho to try a tricky challenge, they might end up unhappy. If you fail to give them good directional protection in the top crux, and they swing out into space if they fail, they might be very unhappy that they followed your choices.
|By joel katon|
Oct 23, 2012
wet around the roofs (it rained 2 days before) probably the crux move awkward move which makes it feel harder than a 5.5
May 21, 2013
Very fun and worth a shot if its open. The first roof is pretty easy to get around but the second one gives you a good challenge. Well protected too so you can't get much better.
|By Karl Rittger|
From: Altadena, CA
Jun 7, 2013
The webbing on the tree has almost been cut through.
There is one rope that looks good but the double fishermans has short tails. I was pretty sketched on the rappel but just added another double sling around the tree for the belay up.
Might just want to head past the tree and set up your own anchor and walk off.
2 days ago
This is one of the best 5.5's in the Gunks, better than Jackie, and it rivals Horseman. I wouldn't say it's a beginner 5.5 -- the gear at the second roof is hard to place because the rock isn't great quality and you're in an awkward stance.