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a. The Uberfall
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Unsorted Routes:

Double Chin 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Norton Smithe and Doug Kerr
Page Views: 4,004
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 2, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (102)
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Negotiating the first roof

Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>


Climb the crack and corner to the first overhang, step left, make a hard high step, then head up to another overhang (crux) to a ledge with a belay/rap tree.

Rappel, or walk off either left to the cliff's end or right via the Uberfall Descent.


Ten feet right of Nosedive at a crack below 2 large roofs and a right-facing corner system about 60 feet up.


Standard Gunks rack.

Photos of Double Chin Slideshow Add Photo
Double Chin
Double Chin
Jen Hopper
Jen Hopper
Start of Double Chin.
Start of Double Chin.
Looking down Double Chin from the rappel tree. Two...
Looking down Double Chin from the rappel tree. Two...

Comments on Double Chin Add Comment
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 5, 2010

Interesting climb. THe first roof is easy to step around, the second roof requires some thoughtful moves to the ledge. Not hard, you just have to find your way.
Jun 21, 2010

I climbed this once years ago, and remember it as awkward and hard-hard-hard for 5.5. I climbed it again yesterday, and - wow, what a hysterically fun, overlooked 5.5!

The top overhang isn't straightforward, but with a little chimneying technique, it's killer fun.

For a less-confident second, be careful to place what will basically be a top anchor *above* the chimney, so that they won't worry about a swing backwards into space - the rap tree isn't ideal as a top anchor.
By tomde01
From: 10510
Jun 11, 2011

Good climb. The second roof is a bit tricky. Watch out for flakes when placing gear on the second roof. I found myself using a hand jam to get passed the second roof. This route is also tricky to clean if your second doesn't climb it. Oh yes I almost forgot a massive spider lives under the first roof. I almost had a heart attack.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Mar 11, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Definitely don't pass this one up!
By kenr
Jun 9, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Agree with the comments above. Since this route is not real popular, I wasn't expecting much ... then it turned out to be a satisfying lead with interesting moves before the crux, and felt well-protected.

If you bring along followers who are not strong at 5.5 and not so gung-ho to try a tricky challenge, they might end up unhappy. If you fail to give them good directional protection in the top crux, and they swing out into space if they fail, they might be very unhappy that they followed your choices.
By joel katon
From: Brooklyn, New York
Oct 23, 2012

wet around the roofs (it rained 2 days before) probably the crux move awkward move which makes it feel harder than a 5.5
By A.wilk
From: MA
May 21, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Very fun and worth a shot if its open. The first roof is pretty easy to get around but the second one gives you a good challenge. Well protected too so you can't get much better.
By Karl Rittger
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 7, 2013

The webbing on the tree has almost been cut through.

There is one rope that looks good but the double fishermans has short tails. I was pretty sketched on the rappel but just added another double sling around the tree for the belay up.

Might just want to head past the tree and set up your own anchor and walk off.
By Brasky
Jun 18, 2013

This is one of the best 5.5's in the Gunks, better than Jackie, and it rivals Horseman. I wouldn't say it's a beginner 5.5 -- the gear at the second roof is hard to place because the rock isn't great quality and you're in an awkward stance.
By Dan Africk
From: Brooklyn, New York
Sep 23, 2014
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

Great Route! Easy climbing but a fun crux move (the roof), and well protected with a solid Gunks rack. I protected the roof with a large nut on a double-length runner, the rock was too irregular for a good cam placement.

I didn't like the fixed tree anchor very much (though I've seen worse), and it would have been either a hanging or very awkward belay, so I climbed about 25' higher to a bigger tree and beautiful ledge with a comfortable seat. Rope drag was high but not terrible, with careful use of long runners. Easy walk-off from that point.
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