I climbed this once years ago, and remember it as awkward and hard-hard-hard for 5.5. I climbed it again yesterday, and - wow, what a hysterically fun, overlooked 5.5!
The top overhang isn't straightforward, but with a little chimneying technique, it's killer fun.
For a less-confident second, be careful to place what will basically be a top anchor *above* the chimney, so that they won't worry about a swing backwards into space - the rap tree isn't ideal as a top anchor.
Good climb. The second roof is a bit tricky. Watch out for flakes when placing gear on the second roof. I found myself using a hand jam to get passed the second roof. This route is also tricky to clean if your second doesn't climb it. Oh yes I almost forgot a massive spider lives under the first roof. I almost had a heart attack.
By Kevin Heckeler From: Upstate New York Mar 11, 2012 rating: 5.54b13IV+11MS 4a
Agree with the comments above. Since this route is not real popular, I wasn't expecting much ... then it turned out to be a satisfying lead with interesting moves before the crux, and felt well-protected.
If you bring along followers who are not strong at 5.5 and not so gung-ho to try a tricky challenge, they might end up unhappy. If you fail to give them good directional protection in the top crux, and they swing out into space if they fail, they might be very unhappy that they followed your choices.
By joel katon From: Brooklyn, New York Oct 23, 2012
wet around the roofs (it rained 2 days before) probably the crux move awkward move which makes it feel harder than a 5.5
By A.wilk From: MA May 21, 2013 rating: 5.54b13IV+11MS 4a
Very fun and worth a shot if its open. The first roof is pretty easy to get around but the second one gives you a good challenge. Well protected too so you can't get much better.
This is one of the best 5.5's in the Gunks, better than Jackie, and it rivals Horseman. I wouldn't say it's a beginner 5.5 -- the gear at the second roof is hard to place because the rock isn't great quality and you're in an awkward stance.