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Upper Cliff
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Double Chin 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,743
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 31, 2007
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Jay cruising in a light rain.

Description 

This is a great crack to hone your hand jamming skills.... As with many upper cliff cracks, if it was longer it would be classic....

Start awkwardly to get around the tree...Actually you will have to use the tree at the start if you want it to be close to 5.6.... After that, hand jam past 2 small roofs (hence the name Double Chin) and up more jamming and some killer face holds to the top of the cliff....

Belay from the top on gear or from trees far back from the edge....


Location 

To the right of Diagonal (5.7+), there is a tree. This route starts right behind the tree and heads up right.... Actually, the tree grows right out of the bottom of the crack....


Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot.... Takes gear very well....



Photos of Double Chin Slideshow Add Photo
Eva on Double Chin... the tree is great for chimneying if hand jams arent working for you...
Eva on Double Chin... the tree is great for chimne...
mike on double chin
mike on double chin
Mike jammin
Mike jammin
mike feeling a bit Black and white...
mike feeling a bit Black and white...
Double chin
BETA PHOTO: Double chin
Comments on Double Chin Add Comment
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By J Meagher
Apr 6, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

If only it were 20 feet longer :( I love the foot jams on this, they're so good it feels like you're standing on a ledge. Fist jams may be a more accurate description than hand jams though

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Apr 6, 2014

normally #2 cams are considered "hand sized" but as we know hands come in many sizes... for me this is perfect hands leading to a fist or 2 at the top... and as you say perfect feet :) an extra 20 feet of this climb would be great but i think another 500 ft would really get me going!

By J Meagher
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Well when I did it yesterday there definitely were spots for hand jams but me and 2 other people (who both have bigger hands than me) both felt it was a mostly fist crack. But either way the foot jams are perfect so its all good :)