Double Bow Chimney
||Trad, 2 pitches, 125', Grade III
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Bucher, Taylor Bond, Mark Beardsley, Drake Buckingham and Mac|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||317|
|Submitted By: ||paul bucher on Mar 28, 2013|
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the unclimbed left side
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Every bit as stunning as it is eye catching from the road. Classic old school desert climbing in an amazing chimney with stellar views. space tower on steroids. this thing is WILD! chimney up the right side of the "tower" protecting the OW in back. drop in for some steep and varied climbing, then out and around the center block to a two bolt belay. more chimney/OW work protected by bolts leads up into an open chimney under a big roof. climb out right to the summit. two bomber bolt anchor. single 70 rope stretcher gets you to a ledge. use caution. easy six foot down climb to the deck. or with shorter line, rap to the top of pitch one and then down. note 1; FA was ground up. note 2; huge potential for an awesome route up the left side of the formation.
very obvious from the road. approach as for sandy's toe. from the flats below the toe continue down river on easy ground and up to the base of the climb. to exit, retrace back to the wash below sandy's toe and follow the old mining road into the wash. one rap back to the tracks.
standard desert rack plus all the fatties you own and can borrow. i used four #5 camalots, two #6s and a set of tubes. bolt belay and a #3 camalot (optional) if your doing it in two pitches. second pitch takes six quick draws, a couple of #.75 camalots and an optional #3 camalot. bomber bolt anchors on top. bring replacement webbing.
drake and mac on the rap out