Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
Picture two motivated and very talented young climbers scouring the walls of Redgarden in search of a first ascent...and then seeing this line. Just like kids in a candy store.
The D-G climbs a plumbline between Vertigo and Super Slab and offers a nice mix of climbing. The following description includes the variation called Dubious Graffiti, a direct middle pitch that adds a touch more 5.11 and is more in character with the original difficult pitches.
The route is best approached by climbing the Lower Ramp, then going left below the base of Super Slab across an exposed traverse to an island ledge. This involves a very exposed move or two of low-end 5th-class climbing, so a rope is advised.
P1 (5.11a): Just above the island ledge climb a steep, clean wall with a thin crack. There often is a resident fixed nut at the crux that helps significantly. Harder for us fat-fingered types. At the top of the crack step left (orignal D-G goes right to the top of pitch one Super Slab), pull a small overhang at a bolt, then back right and belay (or with a 70m rope, continue).
P2: (5.11a with 5.8s): Now climb the arete to the right and clip a bolt. Do a difficult move on the arete, then punch straight up past another bolt and some fixed pins all the way to the base of the Super Slab crux pitch and belay. This is an excellent pitch
P3 (5.11c with 5.10a s): Move straight left from the belay, then up (runout) to clip the first of a line of widely-spaced bolts. The climbing is classic Eldo thin face, with good edges and nice moves. The actual crux involves a strange stand-up from a good undercling that is easy in retrospect but difficult to initiate. The climbing eases after this move, with spectacular views left to Vertigo, but is still steep and a bit runout--but positive. Towards the top move up and right, weaving your way through a bulging section. Good pitch, new bolts, beautiful stone.
Now either descend the raps to the west, or the Upper Ramp to the raps below the Naked Edge, or better, continue with an Upper Wall route.
The typical Eldo stuff, including RPs and TCUs. The upper pitch is bolt protected, but the bolts are widely spaced.
I think this is one of the best route I have done in the canyon. I like it almost as much as The Naked Edge. I don't think it gets done nearly as much. Although it has been nearly five years since I have done the route I don't remember the first pitch being quite as hard as 11c. Steve is right on with the gear though, a couple of TCUs will give you all the malcomb you need on the finger crack first pitch.The last pitch is completely spectacular.
If you are doing the "Dubious Graffiti" middle pitch from top of pitch 1 Superslab, the bolt is clipped around the sharp arete on the left, and you climb on the right. If you fall the rope could get cut, but you'd have to be really unlucky.
Instead of going right after the crux on Pitch 1, a nice alternative is to go slightly left, clip a bolt above the roof, pull the roof (maybe 11a) and belay on the small ledge just above. You also don't have to worry so much about the rope cutting over the arete on the next pitch if you go this way. It also makes for a more independant line.Great Route!
I agree with Jason: the left option through the roof after the 1st pitch crux is more in keeping with the character of the climb (i.e. avoiding the belay at the top of Super Slab pitch 1). Better yet, instead of setting a belay after pulling the roof, continue up past the bolt protecting the next 5.11 section on the arete. Once past this section conitnue up to a good belay ledge, which is actually the top of pitch 2 of Super Slab. There may be a bit of rope drag if you started the climb from the base of Super Slab... this can be remedied by moving the starting belay to the flat spot directly below the first pitch of D-G.
Incredible climb! Best to warm up by climbing Suparete to the top of the lower ramp.
By Ken Duncan Sep 15, 2004 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
The third pitch is my favorite Eldo pitch of all time.
By Ivan Rezucha From: Fort Collins, CO May 29, 2005 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
There's a pretty good beta photo under Mickey Mouse Nailup that shows the upper 2 pitches Doub Griffith/Dubious Graffiti very clearly--it more or less falls the sun/shadow line on the right side of the photo.
If, after the short first pitch, your intent is to climb Dubious Graffiti, it is best to forego the belay on the small ledge above the roof and continue to the good ledge system at the base of the final pitch. The extended pitch is about 150' of fabulous climbing with many 11 crux sections.
IMHO, the best route in Eldo! Spectacular position and exposure, and plenty of variety make this one wild ride. Although there is plenty of spice throughout, the harder portions are all well protected and I think the "s" would pertain to only 5.9 or perhaps up to 10b sections. If you can climb 11b or c, I don't think the serious rating would be a problem. Also, unless you are way honed, a good solid warm up is highly recommended since the first pitch may present a flash pump challenge otherwise. Very nice route description and I strongly concur with the Psycho Pigeon continuation!
By Guy H. From: Fort Collins CO Mar 6, 2006 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a R
At the 3rd bolt on the final pitch, you can follow a natural weakness about 3ft to the right of the bolt line. The smallest ball nuts and a green Alien will protect this section. You can then traverse back to the 4th bolt (which is at your feet) and continue with the regular line. It would difficult to clip the 4th bolt, so place gear instead.
I think this is definitely one of the best and one of my favorite routes in Eldo!! Classic!!! I have always called combining Super Arete and this route with Mellow Yellow and with the 12 finish out the old A4 seam right of the normal finish on Mellow Yellow. The Astro Man of Eldorado... What a line and lots of great continuous climbing the whole way.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 1, 2007 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
No question about it. This is one of the best climbs around. Spectacular from start to finish! The last pitch is truly amazing. Great movement and position with just enough spice to get your pulse racing. I could climb this route everyday for a month and never get bored. Awesome day Guy!
By M.Morley Administrator From: Sacramento, CA Apr 1, 2007
For what it's worth, Eric Doub is still in the Boulder area. His north Boulder home is "net-zero" energy and rated the most energy efficient home in the state of Colorado.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Apr 2, 2007 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
As a matter of fact, we passed Eric on the way out yesterday after climbing DG. Cool
Great route, with a bunch of cool possibilities for fun link-ups. We did Bob's "Astroman of Eldo" link-up of Superarete->DG->Mellow Yellow. 5 consecutive pitches of quality 5.11! I do agree with one of the above comments about the "3rd" pitch (it's easy to combine p1&2 and do the whole route in 2 pitches). On the last pitch, if one follows the line of least resistance at the 3rd bolt, it will take you up and right all the way to Super slab. I went this way, placing 2 small cams, and ended up about even with the 4th bolt and unable to traverse back "on-route". I ended up traversing back a bit higher and rejoining DG at its 5th bolt. I think this variation avoids the 11c crux of the pitch, making it more like 11a/b. So I guess this means that the crux of DG is a bit contrived, but it looked good so I'll have to try to go the true way next time. -Scott
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Golden, CO Mar 2, 2009
Scott, nice job and what a great day to be up there. Yall' did "Bob's Astroman of Eldo", did you guys really think the Mellow Yellow part of the link up was still 5.11 tho? That would be proud!
Followed Bob up the upper 2 pitches of the Doub yesterday while wind was picking up with the storm blowing in. It was spectacular! Mental note: thin, balancy climbing on that arete with 20 mph wind and worse gusts is heady. Props to Bob for leading this thing flawlessly in some adverse conditions!
On another note, we did the Ruper start to Roll Over Rover and you can traverse hard left and work your way back to the arete and finish up the last two pitches of the Doub... but you will be crossing straight over Grand Giraffe and Art's Spar, so maybe not the best linkup for a weekend day.
What a route!
By Hank Caylor Administrator From: Golden, CO Mar 19, 2010
But that ain't the DG. Let's rope up up.
Edit too add, BURLY!
By Noah8000 From: Vail, CO Apr 28, 2012 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a R
AMAZING...Go do it! I also will say the Dubious Graffiti is the way to go. You can combine the pitches into one awesome pitch with quite a bit of 5.11. Had a bit of rope to spare with a 60m. Don't need to much of a rack. RPs and TCUs.
By Taylor Roy From: Boulder, Co Mar 30, 2013 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a R
There is a 25 foot runout between bolts 1 and 2 on the third pitch. Not particularly hard (5.9ish) but very scary. I vote for an R rating since a fall trying to clip the second bolt would be ugly.
I see the 2013 comment on the runout between the first and third bolts on the third pitch. You bet! Consider (from my armchair, I am considering) that on the FA the first bolt was AT THE CRUX. The current first bolt wasn't even there; as a teenager with the motto for leading of "Don't ever let the belayer get bored!" I simply ran it out from the Super Slab belay to the crux. Why would you need any pro for a 5.8 slab? Nowadays that sure seems like 5.10... and I recall Lidija Painkijer (the Painkiller, or the Pocket Russian) leading out from the belay, before someone retro-bolted the current first bolt, and crying out more than once, "Thees iz no five eeeiiight!" She was right.
It's great to see the enjoyment this route has brought through the years.
A new 12a direct finish has been added to the Doub-Griffith per Park, ACE, and public review & approval in early 2014. From the last bolt on the DG (at the base of the final 5.10 headwall), look up and left for 2 bolts. It's pretty obvious - climb the hanging arete that forms the summit of the Vertigo tower. Cool position and well-protected 5.12 climbing.
The climbing to the first new bolt is about 10+. There is an optional, yellow Alien-sized placement before you start traversing left toward the first bolt.
The climbing gets progressively harder, with the crux just past the second new bolt. After pulling the crux, there is a good #2 Camalot placement in a pocket that will provide a directional for the second after they clean the last bolt. The climbing eases quickly toward the summit of the Vertigo tower. It's really nice to have a large sewn runner or cordalette (>6' diameter) to loop around the top of the tower for an anchor / directional. Belay in the normal DG / Super Slab belay spot below the summit of the tower. Optionally, you could also get good hand sized cams down behind the summit of the tower in the Vertigo crack, but you'd need a lot of long runners to reach back over the tower.