There are now two routes in between Huecos and Namaste, a hard 12- or so route with black hangers that is just right of Huecos, and this one which is 10 feet left of Namaste and is a fairly new route(2011) as no mention of it has been made here yet, and I found the route mostly devoid of chalk.
I gave this a grade of 11a/b(confirmed by FA party comment below) as it is just as juggy as the 10+ Unknown route but a few bolts longer. There was one long reach to a sandy sloper that made this feel a little cruxy, but sitdown huecos throughout make it pretty tame. It is about 2 bolts shorter than Namaste, and a 70m is plenty of rope. The huecos are a bit more fragile and some of the bolts are spaced 15 feet apart, so don't deck. Overall another fun, jugfest route that is worth doing.
Starts on the sandy ledge just left of Namaste.
Probably 12 bolts plus 3 bolts chain anchor. Recommend a 70m rope.
On belay. Dost Mitra.
Feb 20, 2012
Thanks for posting something about this route and I'm glad that you enjoyed it. A friend and I set this route back in August 2011. We named it Dost Mitra (meaning Friend). We agree on the difficulty that you posted, about 5.11b. I just posted an article about setting the route on our blog, ClimbingHouse.com .
Since the route is new, some of the fragile holds will eventually come off and the sand will be removed as more people climb it.
|By Stevie Nacho|
Feb 21, 2012
Lets chill out on new sport routes on this wall! The park service is already quite pissed off about this area. Are you guys hand drilling these? PLEASE make sure that they cannot be seen from the trail. Are you using colored chalk? The rangers watch this area and use it as a compass on handling climbing regulation in the area. It would be a shame to see new anchors get banned because of a couple of one pitch routes while there are so many untouched big walls waiting for somebody to have a grand adventure on. Please remove these off Mountain Project and most importantly,
Please stop developing this wall!!!
|By Caleb Padgett|
From: Rockville, utah
Feb 22, 2012
"The park service is already quite pissed off about this area"
Really? Do you have information regarding this or can you elaborate please?
This comment seems very inconsistent with dialogue I have had over the last 5 years with ZNP LEO's and wilderness rangers. I live in the area and have had extended talks with 2 different LE's who are in charge of monitoring climbing in the park. They are both climbers and are very supportive of new route development, though they do encourage camo hangers and of course hand drilling. Truth be told climbers are viewed in a positive light. As a user group of the park we are much more responsible and low impact than other groups that require a large degree of park oversight and management like canyoneers.
Feb 25, 2012
"The rangers watch this area and use it as a compass on handling climbing regulation in the area."
I too was very curious about the comment made about not developing this area and how it was being watched closely. When we set the route, the first thing we did was go right to the ranger station and ask what the rules were. They informed us to use a hand drill and notify them of the new route, both of which we did. If they had told us not to develop the area, we would have gone and climbed a big wall in the main valley (we are both climbers = trad, sport, boulderers, alpine, long, short). Not a big deal.
If there is new information, a change of rules, or something we did has made the management look at climbing in the area in a negative light, please let us know and we will correct the situation to make things right. The last thing that we intended was to do something that could possibly limit access to the entire park.
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 19, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
Great climbing but a bit spooky and sandy. Nothing broke for me though so perhaps it is more solid than it appears.
From: saint george area
Jul 29, 2012
My buddy Dave led this. Ripped a hold @the 4-5 bolt and landed in the tree be carefull . Great heads up climbing.
|By Pat Mac|
May 29, 2013
Great addition to this wall. I found this to be the most sandy route on the wall. Still amazing climbing though and in my opinion has the most comfortable sit down hueco on the entire wall. Nothing broke for me but I did climb carefully.
|By Gordon Larsen|
From: St. George, Utah
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
I was wondering when someone would take the time and effort to bolt this obvious line. Nice job guys. Fun climbing although still a bit sandy the day we climbed it on a bluebird autumn day.