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Donnelly Canyon
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5.10 Corner T 
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Binou's Crack T 
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Dos Hermanos T 
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Elephant Man T 
Fuel Injected Hardbody T 
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Dos Hermanos 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: not sure
Page Views: 6,551
Submitted By: Andrew Wellman on Mar 9, 2002

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Trying not to fall on Dos Hermanos

Description 

This climb is truly incredible. The greatest part is that its nice hard climbing that varies incredibly in size, its not the same move all the way to the chains. Dos Hermanos is located to the left of the Drainpipe Corner and to the right of the Elephant route and chocolate corner. Just look for the sweet looking crack busting right through the middle of the huge roof. Start by heading up a system of twin cracks. Actually the left one is a crack, but you can't really get you're feet into it cause it has an edge pointing away from you, and the right crack is really only a rail you can slap and lieback and heelhook your way up. The feet are mostly smears on the face. The first crux comes right before you hit the low angle section, trying to get your feet up on a ledge. You can rest here as long as you want, its no hands. Next, head up the steep heros handjams to a rest right under the roof. Reach out as far as you can and place a #3 camalot, then jam out the roof, keeping your feet in the crack. Depending on hand size the roof is either easy(large hands), hard(cupping, normal hands), or highly improbable(womans hands). Look for crimpers on the left side to help you pull the lip. The last move is literally the crux of the whole climb. Super good fun.


Protection 

The first bit starts with yellow/red aliens and .5 camalots till you're through the first crux. Then throw in a .75 camalot or two. The crack leading to the roof is #2 camalots, so really you don't need any(or so they say). Through the roof two #3 camalots will get you to the chains.



Photos of Dos Hermanos Slideshow Add Photo
A brilliant climb.
A brilliant climb.
An excitable character heading up Dos Hermanos, just after the mantel
An excitable character heading up Dos Hermanos, ju...
Starting up Dos Hermanos.
Starting up Dos Hermanos.
Bennett starting up the fine line, Fall 2006.
Bennett starting up the fine line, Fall 2006.
Getting started
Getting started
... and thru the roof
... and thru the roof
Roy Leggett on Dos Hermanos. Photo by Jimmy Hawk.
Roy Leggett on Dos Hermanos. Photo by Jimmy Hawk.
The lower crux.
The lower crux.
Krister Jonnson of Alpine Madness.
Krister Jonnson of Alpine Madness.
Comments on Dos Hermanos Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 7, 2013
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 25, 2002
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

The Crux is lower for small-fingered people- but the move up through the roof can be hard too.
For a small man-hand size, you'll find it's just plain too small to get a fist in. The hand will go in sideways, but will be so bent that the fingers can't flex. The hand can go in the "flat" way- try folding your thumb as if to touch the base of the pinkey finger with the tip. This gave me just enough purchase to hang on, although I'd already hung on the route anyway.

By Andy Johnson
Sep 29, 2003

Just to set the record straight, this route is yet another creation by the Man, the Myth, the Legend... Steve Hong.

By Max Schon
Nov 18, 2003

I would have to disagree with the comment that the last move is the crux of the climb. Although a little difficult, you get a great rest before the final bulge. I think the crux is about half way up in the finger section.

By Joe Collins
Nov 21, 2003

For me, the last roof is undoubtedly the crux. I have skinny hands, so the jams out the roof at the end are just too big. I've climbed the lower crux clean a couple of times, but always fail to pull the last roof.

By Kirk Woerner
Apr 1, 2004

I want, I want. Such an aesthetic line!

By Brian Weinstein
Sep 22, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

By far my favorite route in Donnelley. If you want a change from the long splitters or corners, this great route offers a whole lot of diverse climbing in 90 feet. There are new anchors below the roof, but that takes away part of the fun.

By chris Kalous
Nov 8, 2006

The anchors (lower and upper) got replaced last year. Thanks to Climbing Magazine's ARI. Just a note for you desert rats that still like drilled angles - I funked both the top angles with a light yank on the funkness. These were not the first ones I cleaned that way. I have NEVER been able to clean an expansion bolt this easily.

Chris Kalous

By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Apr 25, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I thought this was a Ruckman Bros route? hence the name Dos hermanos. Correct if wrong. Great route.

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
May 27, 2007

Steve Hong did the FA of this route with his brother.

By Greg D
From: Here
Jan 5, 2008

I'm a bit confussed by the two sets of anchors. Why would anyone place a set of anchors just before the crux, or in this case, one of the crux's when an anchor already exist above? Shoud we place anchors before the crux on every climb? Perhaps we should remove the first set of anchors. Anyone know the history here?

By Ben Kiessel
Jan 8, 2008

I agree Greg, pretty silly to have a set of anchors before the roof. When I first climbed this route in 2002 I think there was only one bolt before the roof now there is a full blown anchor. Sorry but I have no idea why any bolts were placed below the roof there is bomber gear.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jan 11, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I believe I recall 2 sets present in 1995.

By chris Kalous
Mar 5, 2008

I agree w/ tony. I recall that there were two anchors back in the mid 90s. I replaced them both (see above comment) because some people would use the bottom one whether I did or not, the webbing was ugly, and I generally think chopping bolts is more about ego than conservation. In a place like Donnelly, where so many people cut their teeth, and there is very little hard climbing, it doesn't seem like that big of a deal. If you have small hands, I imagine that the top could ruin your day pretty quickly. If you do decide to pull that low anchor, please consider using the chains to replace another anchor in the creek, as they were donated expressly for that purpose.

Those upper bolts should be able to be tightened since they are Rawls.

By Nathan Furman
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 26, 2008

I loved this climb! Interesting, fun, challenging, varied--maybe the best climb I've done in Indian Creek. I have bigger hands; the roof was very mellow (#3 camalots) with great feet, but the finger section down low was hard. Being able to fire in .5 camalots off a pumpy stance seems pretty key.

By Drewsky
Jul 20, 2008

Upper anchor bolts were very loose as of 4/08.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Nov 4, 2008

Best route at Donnelly. hard for me to hang a grade on this... Bloom guide calls it .11+ which feels right to me. Crux for me was not placing an extraneous #3 high which got in my way. Placed 2 #3s from the stance at the roof and fired next go.

By chris Kalous
Feb 2, 2009

Bolts tightened on 1/30/09. Good as new. The hangers get rotated when you clean or toprope with a directional. I believe this is why they loosened up. Begs the question, why two years of comments about loose bolts, but no wrenching?

By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Apr 27, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Absolutely Fantastic!!! Bloom's guidebook calls it a 5.11+.

By Brian Adzima
From: the Paris of Appalachia
Apr 28, 2009

Lowered a 40lb block off the route, otherwise great, how many other routes in the creek make use of multiple heel hooks

By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
Nov 9, 2009

Recommend 1x blue TCU, 1x yellow TCU, 5x #0.5 camalots, 2x #0.75 - #3 camalots.

By Kevin Volkening
Feb 8, 2012
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

11+ for sure . . . a stellar route

By JamesLucas
Apr 13, 2012

The anchors could use some help

By Crotch Robbins
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Add a wrench to the rack for this one. The bolts need to be tightened again. Will try to get up there in the next week or two.

By Kevin DB
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

The best climb at Donnelly, one of the best line in the whole creek. Just fantastic.

By Clay McMasters
From: Longmont, CO
Jan 11, 2013

My fingers seemed to fit well in the crack

By Ryan Z
Oct 7, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The anchor is pretty dodgey. If someone bolt savvy is up there we would all appreciate the work.