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BETA PHOTO: Topo
Solid climbing on good rock. Interesting if El Camino Real is busy. Somewhat of a variation of El Camino. P2 is solid and not that flaky crap that's on some of the seldom traveled routes.
P1: 5.10a Start as per El Camino Real and head up to the overlap and left. Instead of following the easier ground to the top of the El Camino Real P1 pillar, head left across face climbing and a bush to another crack system with 5.9 climbing and some bushes. Stop Below Jungle ledge and belay.
P2: short pitch to jungle ledge.
P3: Start up the El Camino Real lieback. Just above the treetop there is a spot where you can exit the lieback and climb right onto the top of the dihedral (hard 5.10 move). Once on the face, clip a bolt (buttonhead, but looked good). Climb up the right side arete for a bit of easier 5.10 climbing for about 20' to the next bolt. Clip this and welcome to the crux. Intricate slab (2 moves) gaines a good crack. Finishes at a 2 bolt rap station (good bolts)
P4-5: Follow El Camino Real, Jensen's Jaunt, or Pigs in Bondage to the top
A great way to TR the sweet P3 is to do El Camino Real and climb up and right from the El Camino P3 anchors (easy 5th) 20' and gain this 2 bolt station and TR the route.
Starts as per El Camino Real near the No Top Pine Tree on the bouldery 5.10a start just left of an incipient crack to an overlap.
Right of Fingertip Traverse and left of Jensen's Jaunt.
Walkoff Friction Traverse.
Several thin to 2 inches
By tom donnelly
May 14, 2012
There is now a great bolted direct start to P3. Step right from Jungle ledge, and do a steep move up the arete, approx 11a.