More good friction climbing. Start left of Topographical Oceans and right of an obvious pillar.
P1: Climb past four bolts (5.8) to a hanging belay, or belay to the left on a big ledge (requires gear).
P2: Good friction (5.9) past bolts to a belay. Many parties end here.
P3: More good friction (5.10) to the roof. Either lower from the last bolt, or continue on with aid (A2?) above to eventually connect with Bishop Jaggers. This is adventure territory....
Old school bolts, gear to #3 Friend for alternate 1st belay. More gear for the adventurous planning to do the upper aid pitch.
|By Shane Zentner|
Oct 30, 2007
Locate the route immediately left of the first pitch of Topographical Oceans. This pitch pulls the same roof system as Topo with the same excitement. Protect the roof with a #2 Camalot and commit to the slab above and climb to the shiny new bolt anchors, or, belay on the big ledge directly left of the anchor. There are new bolts on top of the third pitch. Climb the first three pitches as they are fun (although I'm not certain about the A2 pitch).
|By john durr|
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 4, 2010
Ron Kirk and Mike Smith, 1985.
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
In case this isn't clear from the other comments, let me note that all bolts (to anchor atop P3) are "new" (actually 7 years old as I write this, but that's new enough). Much thanks for the work, see www.safeclimbing.org/areas/colorado/southplatte.htm.