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P1: climb Captain's Fist
. Use the excellent beta on that route's page.
P2: layback the pretty good corner to the top of tilted tower. For rope drag it's best to avoid placing gear, but it sports some excellent cams. Then from the top of the tower, clip the first of bolt of the 5.7 R that is part of a couple of different routes.
P3: from the bolted anchor atop the R runout, scramble up to the arch (a heart pounder if your limit is 5.4) There is a section with a sloper half way on the overhanging face of the arch. Stand right in front of the sloper to find two jugs and pull a bouldering style top-out move. If you must place a piece, extend it as much as possible, because the crux comes later.
This is where Dorsey-O'Donoghue begins.
Instead of scrambling off right. continue straight up where there are two adjacent slightly overhanging cracks. The left slightly right leaning, right almost horizontal. Take the right one. From the no hands rest beneath this short but taxing section, place several small cams and nuts at the base of the crack, and plug in one piece over your head (somewhere between #0.75 and #1 in depending on how far you can reach). Then proceed to crank out right through 5.10 moves. Pull around the corner and build your anchor from gear, as far back as possible (the gear is better and it's easier to belay from there).
From hollow flake, walk 40 feet right to the left side side of tilted town and begin on Captain's Fist
. (If you have non-climber friends, watching the last pitch from across the river is usually awe-inspiring.
Normal rack. #4 Camalot is super helpful for the Captain's Fist
pitch. Go light on nuts, they aren't super helpful. One really long sling is nice for the beginning of P3.
The first pitch belays at a piece of steel wire. Second pitch has two bolts and a two bolt anchor.
Gear for the final belay.
From: Denver, Colorado
Aug 12, 2009
Shouldn’t this be a variation of the Arch Rock Direct? You are pretty much following the arch rock direct pretty much all the way up and then you change the last 20 feet.
By Larry C. Schubarth
From: colorado springs, colorado
Jul 27, 2011
That's right. Harvey Carter & I climbed a plumbline direct in the '70s, sounds pretty close to what you're describing.