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 ADVANCED
m. Psycho Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Five TR 
Black Wallpaper T,TR 
Crack of Respendent Delights T,TR 
Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain T,TR 
Psychadelic T,TR 
Psyche Out TR 
Psycho Crack Left T,TR 
Psycho Crack Right T,TR 
Yellow Wallpaper, The T,TR 

Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,977
Submitted By: Gunkiemike on Nov 8, 2011

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Resting in the crux lower part of the chimney. No...

Description 

As chimney routes go, this one's pretty neat. Likely hidden for years behind a large tree, which now lies in pieces at the base (cut by Park personnel). A wild line with a "bottomless" horizontal section. Update - the route does have history, as it turns out. Rich Romano, Andrew Zalewski, and perhaps others climbed this route years ago.

Location 

Follow the chimney (tight down low) to where it widens and you can crab crawl out to the west face, where an offwidth crack leads to the top.

Protection 

This is a spooky but wild route to lead. Adequate gear is there but it is often placed from uncomfortable positions. Fortunately it's possible to TR it with two ropes. You want to lower one rope down through the ceiling crack from above and hang a second down the front to protect the finish (e.g. same anchor as for Psychadelic).


Photos of Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain Slideshow Add Photo
Psychadelic (left) and Dorsal Fin (right)
BETA PHOTO: Psychadelic (left) and Dorsal Fin (right)
Up in the roof.  From here you go onto the front f...
Up in the roof. From here you go onto the front f...
Happy to be back in the daylight, but it's still a...
Happy to be back in the daylight, but it's still a...

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