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Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.9 from 7
votes
Routes in m. Crevice right, and Psycho Wall
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After Five TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Black Wallpaper T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Crack of Resplendent Delights T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Dorsal Fin AKA Brain Strain T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Psychadelic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Psyche Out TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Psycho Crack Left T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Psycho Crack Right T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Yellow Wallpaper, The T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,997 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Gunkiemike on Nov 8, 2011 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, M Santisi, chris vultaggio |
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Description
As chimney routes go, this one's pretty neat. Likely hidden for years behind a large tree, which now lies in pieces at the base (cut by Park personnel). A wild line with a "bottomless" horizontal section. Update - the route does have history, as it turns out. Rich Romano, Andrew Zalewski, and perhaps others climbed this route years ago.
Location
Follow the chimney (tight down low) to where it widens and you can crab crawl out to the west face, where an offwidth crack leads to the top.
Protection
This is a spooky but wild route to lead. Adequate gear is there but it is often placed from uncomfortable positions. Fortunately it's possible to TR it with two ropes. You want to lower one rope down through the ceiling crack from above and hang a second down the front to protect the finish (e.g. same anchor as for Psychadelic).
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