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 ADVANCED
Ridge 2 aka Satan's Slab
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666 T 
667 T 
Beware the Future S 
Burger Madness T 
Doric Dihedral T 
Enchanted Devil T 
Far Out T 
Hobbit, The T 
Omen, The T 
Purgatory T 
Satan's Slab T 
Wild Turkey T 

Doric Dihedral 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Roger Briggs (FA), Chip Ruckgaber (FFA)
Page Views: 1,562
Submitted By: Alex Shainman on Mar 7, 2007

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Photo: Andy Mann. Lynn Hill plugs a piece of gear ...

  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    I am not the authority to provide historical info on this route nor can I tell you how the dihedral fits into the classical order of Greek architecture. I can tell you of its monumental early free ascent (you are still my hero Chip)...Hey, he made a cover shot!

    Doric Dihedral is one of the quintessential 5.12 "old school" routes in Boulder. Fading into sublime obscurity and rarely free-climbed in the original fashion. Hard moves including aesthetic palming and stemming up a leaning, hanging corner and a clenching mantle move provide the challenge.

    Protection...I first climbed DD in the mid 90s and the last time sometime in 2002 (has anyone replaced anything?). At the start is the first (modern) bolt for BTF. I "think" there used to be a pin here for DD?? After some hard bouldery moves, the rock becomes jig-saw like and twists up into a corner with (at the time good) pins and some good supplemental gear. Above the interesting geology is the smooth, tan-colored fine-grained rock of choice Flatiron climbing. The dihedral definitely steepens here and provides a demanding stemming sequence past this "aid-bolt". Placed whilst in aiders, to the free climber, it's too high to easily clip. For many years it has donned a ratty, whitened piece of tatty poot. Yikes! If it has not been replaced yet...the bolt should be...the question may be to either lower it or extend chain from it??? Comments???

    Once past this crux there are two choices...A possible escape out right to the bolt anchor of the neighboring 2 routes or to fully COMMIT!

    Up above in the looming overhang and upper corner was/is a nest of ratty slings connected to...JUNK!! The true crux of the route! Are you a believer? You must believe or you could succumb to slab-splatter...Yuck!! Not to spoil the fun but it's that eye opening mantle and a surprise finish...

    This route will always remain sacred to me...It truly is an amazing line but I will remember it most for the experience shared with my climbing companion on one occasion. Thank you Cameron, you are still missed....

    Location 

    The obvious right-facing/leaning dihedral between the broken arete climb of Beware the Future and the "arm and hammer" produced Watchmaker Steady bolted steep slab.

    Protection 

    QDs for pins and bolts, wired nuts and cams in the small to mid-range sizes.


    Photos of Doric Dihedral Slideshow Add Photo
    Bob Horan on 2nd free ascent of Doric Dihedral.
    Bob Horan on 2nd free ascent of Doric Dihedral.
    Chip Ruckgaber working on free-climbing the Doric ...
    Chip Ruckgaber working on free-climbing the Doric ...

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