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Doric Column
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Big Nasty, The T 
Doric Column T 

Doric Column 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A2+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 340', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C0 [details]
FA: Bill Forrest, George Hurley, with Rod Chuck on the lower leads(1969)
Page Views: 1,729
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Nov 8, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Looking down pitch 2.

Description 

Pitch 1:Climb mixed free and aid up and left to a bolt(Crux). Continue to aid up and left to an anchor, on the right edge of the chimney.(5.8, A2+)
Pitch 2:Climb a old bolt ladder to an anchor in the chimney.(C1)
Pitch 3:Continue up bolts to 5.8 free on mud, below a roof. Aid the right side on a "expanding flake"(I did not notice it expand) to an anchor.(5.8, A2)
Pitch 4:Climb mixed free and aid up chimney and over bulge to good ledge out of chimney. There were sections of runouts on this pitch.(5.8, C1)
Pitch 5:Easy free climbing up crack leads to the summit.

Descent:Rap route

Note:I combined pitches 3 and 4, the rope drag was bad. I would suggest combining pitches 2 and 3.

Also this route is supposed to go free at 5.11.

Location 

The route starts on the up hill side of the Doric Column, on a mound of dirt. The first bolt is obvious up and left of the start.

Protection 

Standard desert rack, plus some angles, and a few wide cams for pitch 4.


Photos of Doric Column Slideshow Add Photo
Looking up at the Chimney
Looking up at the Chimney
John leading pitch 2.
John leading pitch 2.
Combining pitches 3 and 4.
Combining pitches 3 and 4.

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By Mr T
Apr 27, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0

This route goes free at around 5.11. No aid needed, although pins are useful for protection. Old bolts are garbage. I placed two new bolts on lead.

Tried to change the rating but MP doesn't allow me to get rid of aid status…….