Pitch 1:Climb mixed free and aid up and left to a bolt(Crux). Continue to aid up and left to an anchor, on the right edge of the chimney.(5.8, A2+)
Pitch 2:Climb a old bolt ladder to an anchor in the chimney.(C1)
Pitch 3:Continue up bolts to 5.8 free on mud, below a roof. Aid the right side on a "expanding flake"(I did not notice it expand) to an anchor.(5.8, A2)
Pitch 4:Climb mixed free and aid up chimney and over bulge to good ledge out of chimney. There were sections of runouts on this pitch.(5.8, C1)
Pitch 5:Easy free climbing up crack leads to the summit.
Note:I combined pitches 3 and 4, the rope drag was bad. I would suggest combining pitches 2 and 3.
Also this route is supposed to go free at 5.11.
The route starts on the up hill side of the Doric Column, on a mound of dirt. The first bolt is obvious up and left of the start.
Standard desert rack, plus some angles, and a few wide cams for pitch 4.
Looking up at the Chimney
John leading pitch 2.
Combining pitches 3 and 4.
|By Mr T|
Apr 27, 2014
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0
This route goes free at around 5.11. No aid needed, although pins are useful for protection. Old bolts are garbage. I placed two new bolts on lead.
Tried to change the rating but MP doesn't allow me to get rid of aid status…….