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 ADVANCED
Bulletheads South
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Cream of White Mice T 
Black Book, The T 
Coogee Crack T 
Dora's Delight T,S 
Golden Labs T 
Manana T 
Nuclear Arms T 
Slot Machine T 
Xenolith Dance S 
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Dora's Delight 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jeff Thomson, Kevin McLane: 2000
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: Nate Ball on Aug 23, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Description 

Traverse across the slab and tentatively climb towards the roof above. Use the broken roof's features to work your way up left and surmount the slab above, using a 2" cam to protect this move. Clip more bolts on your way to the chains at the top of the slab.

Location 

In the Manana area, route furthest right. Around the arete above Golden Labs.

Protection 

7 bolts, a 2" cam


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By rsmb
Jun 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

An underrated pitch, in my opinion. This is the bolt line visible from the top of Slot Machine. If you do that climb, hop on this.
By slim
Administrator
Aug 5, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

the only noteworthy thing, on this otherwise bland pitch, is that it is really poorly bolted for a modern route. expect bolts really close together on easy trivial climbing, and a poorly protected crux section with really ugly fall potential.
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