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Willow River State Park
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Doppler Effect 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Josh Helke
Page Views: 1,205
Submitted By: Brandonbus on Feb 8, 2006
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Description 

This is the only finished route up river from "Leftovers." The route starts with a crux right off the ground. A couple moves yields more moderate pocket pulling on less than bomber rock (at times in the summer watch for bees) to a higher tiered roof section and finishes on hard moves for clipping the anchors.

Carefully cross upper falls from shady side of river. Stick clip the first bolt.


Protection 

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.



Comments on Doppler Effect Add Comment
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By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Apr 26, 2007

I believe that this route is also known as Doppler Effect, and goes at 5.12a.

JW

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 26, 2007

Something doesn't sound right here...a 5.9 is also called a 5.12?

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
Apr 26, 2007

Consider the original poster...

By Brandonbus
Mar 28, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I find it hard to believe that the route described is anywhere near 5.9. I'm thinking low 12 as well. The moves off the ground are hard enough without thinking about the desperatly blind slapping that occurs when trying to clip the anchor. Also careful on the hike over.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 6, 2008

The route description has been changed by Brandonbus. It should be more accurate now.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Aug 10, 2009

john stretch said this route has also been called "splash."

this route stays dry most of the time and is a good choice if you're visiting after a recent storm.

be prepared for the finals holds to be covered in mud.

stick clip helpful for first bolt.

to reach the route, go across to the other side of the river, hike above the falls, the cross back to the base of the route. note: it's easier to cross this upper section if you take your shoes/sandals off and go barefoot.

By AntVicino
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

This line has surprisingly good moves on better than expected rock. Randy is right about the last holds being covered in mud, however. Definitely check out this line if you are in the neighborhood and want an adventurous little route.