Dopeman V8
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Seth getting his beta dialed!
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Description This problem starts sitting on a good jug. You maneuver yourself under an overhang, moving right, with your feet on a slick rock slab and try to stick the severely sloping crimp-rail with both hands. Then, for the crux: you shoot a hand up, blindly grasping a very sloping, but nicely textured open hand grip. More hard moves ensue, possibly making use of a heelhook to the right, eventually moving up to a nubbin that is a couple of feet above the sloper. Moving left can reveal more sidepulls. An awkward move to gain the slab finishes the hard part. The slab above is still not trivial. THIS PROBLEM IS AWESOME!
Location Backside of the boulder featuring the Whip
Protection Crashpad
Sam looking strong on Dopeman.
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Me (Chris Deulen) utilizing the heel hook.
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Mike pullin down the dopeness
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I love this mid fall shot... not the best picture ...
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sorry i forgot your name dude... if you look at th...
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another shot of dope man
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sorry this will be the last one... its just hard t...
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Seth having his heel pop.
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Dope man!! using some crazy toe-hook
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Sam on the upper crux section
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By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Jun 20, 2008
| I love this problem. Probably my favorite in the park. Without giving too much beta, the heel hook comes earlier for me than in the description.
Took me about a year of on-and-off effort to send, and I still daydream about it. |
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Mar 31, 2009
| Thanks Bryce!
Your beta could not be more different from mine. Wild. |
By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Apr 4, 2009
| So solid Bryce. I'm excited to get up! |
By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 22, 2009
| i was working this the other night! it was so much fun!!! deff have a ways to go and i was using some really funky beta lol :) involving a heel hook on the right cross right hand to the bad sloper and a huge toss to the sidepull cut feet heel hook left side start and work my way up haha got most the moves but still missing a few crucial ones... cant wait to get back on it! damn you pawtuckaway right when i finish one project you draw me in for another! i wanna go back to rumney!! :) |
By Lanky
From: Portland, ME
Aug 23, 2009
| Mike, I match the sloper and go right hand to the peanut-shaped edge first. |
By Robert Slingsby
Aug 17, 2011
| Super dissapointed; my fault I guess. Snuck in a quick p-tuck trip in while on business travel and picked this problem based on the guide book rating. It's a 6' tall one move wonder (at least in the summer... That's my bad again).
Since this is supposed one of the best in the area... I won't be coming back. Sorry guys. |
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 18, 2011
| Well, your choice, but you would be missing a lot of great climbing. I think Dopeman is a good problem (It was better before things broke), even if not anywhere near the best. Still, calling it a 6 foot one move wonder is not too accurate IMO, and one rushed visit to Pway will not give you a good feeling for the huge park at all. If you had been able to explore around some, you would have found plenty of amazing problems and beautiful settings.
(Yeah, I know, he is probably a troll) |
By JamieRe
From: Providence, RI
Nov 10, 2011
| Can't wait to get back to this problem... worked it once and am very excited about it! |
By Eric Heiden
From: Derry, NH
Dec 7, 2011
| Dopeman @ 4:19:
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