Dope  5.13b

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Type:  Sport, 50 feet Consensus:  5.13a/b [details] FA:  Lance Hadfield Submitted By:  LeeAB on Jun 3, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Closed for Sensitive Archaeological Resources MORE INFO >>> The Forest Service issued a temporary closure of Crystal Cave to all public access in order to perform an archaeological survey. Impacts to the cave’s nationally significant archeological resources are the major concern. The Access Fund continues to work with New Mexico Climbers’ Resource and Advocacy Group (NM CRAG), local climbers, and the US Forest Service to address this issue. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Thuggy moves right off the ground lead past 3 bolts to a shelf and some underclings. Rest up here as much as possible. Continue past a couple more bolts on smaller holds to a difficult move getting established in a pair of pockets and a big throw out of them to a jug. Move up the series of jugs past another bolt. Make a long reach out left from the highest jug to clip, call it good for "Short on Dope" 5.12+, or bust the V6 boulder problem moving out left to another jug and clip, then up on flat holds to an undercling and the last bolt/anchor. Recommend not clipping this and instead lowering off the previous bolt as it will be hard on your rope.

Location 

There are 2 main cave features and this route starts on the prow that sticks out between them off of a couple of pretty big stacked blocks. The route starts out by heading out and right for a few bolts then more straight out and finally to the left at the end.

Protection 

Bolts with fixed chain draws. Color coded with green tape. Stick clip recommended for first clip.

Photos of Dope Slideshow

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MattL at the start of Dope	MattL moving past the first bolt on Dope	MattL trying to get tall at the begining of the se...
MattL entering the third and final crux of Dope	BETA PHOTO: The hold that the last crux of Dope revolves aroun...	crux of dope Photo By Dan West
Fighting the pump Photo By Dan West	BETA PHOTO: Topo shot	13 year old Ben sends it Dope (5.13)
Ben Hanna rests up for the crux moves on Dope (5.1...	The tough middle section on Dope (5.13)