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 ADVANCED
Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave)
Routes Sorted
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Soul Crusher S 
Unknown S 

Dope 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a/b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 1,875
Submitted By: LeeAB on Jun 3, 2010

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end of dope

Closed Permanently for Sensitive Archaeological Resources MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Thuggy moves right off the ground lead past 3 bolts to a shelf and some underclings. Rest up here as much as possible. Continue past a couple more bolts on smaller holds to a difficult move getting established in a pair of pockets and a big throw out of them to a jug. Move up the series of jugs past another bolt. Make a long reach out left from the highest jug to clip, call it good for "Short on Dope" 5.12+, or bust the V6 boulder problem moving out left to another jug and clip, then up on flat holds to an undercling and the last bolt/anchor. Recommend not clipping this and instead lowering off the previous bolt as it will be hard on your rope.

Location 

There are 2 main cave features and this route starts on the prow that sticks out between them off of a couple of pretty big stacked blocks. The route starts out by heading out and right for a few bolts then more straight out and finally to the left at the end.

Protection 

Bolts with fixed chain draws. Color coded with green tape. Stick clip recommended for first clip.


Photos of Dope Slideshow Add Photo
MattL at the start of Dope
MattL at the start of Dope
Fighting the pump <br /> <br />Photo By Dan West
Fighting the pump Photo By Dan West
Topo shot
BETA PHOTO: Topo shot
13 year old Ben Hanna rests  <br />up for the crux moves on <br />Dope (5.13)
13 year old Ben Hanna rests up for the crux moves...
crux of dope <br /> <br />Photo By Dan West
crux of dope Photo By Dan West
MattL moving past the first bolt on Dope
MattL moving past the first bolt on Dope
MattL trying to get tall at the begining of the second crux on Dope
MattL trying to get tall at the begining of the se...
MattL entering the third and final crux of Dope
MattL entering the third and final crux of Dope
13 year old Ben sends it <br />Dope (5.13)
13 year old Ben sends it Dope (5.13)
The hold that the last crux of Dope revolves around. It is pretty good after you hang, but after 40 feet of upsidedown climbing and  2 sections of about V5 it is pretty bad.
BETA PHOTO: The hold that the last crux of Dope revolves aroun...
The tough middle section on <br />Dope (5.13)
The tough middle section on Dope (5.13)

Comments on Dope Add Comment
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By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Aug 2, 2010
rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

This climb is Dope! If not for the sharp holds and wandering line this would be 4 stars to me. The rock is surprisingly good for about 90% of the route. Basically a series of boulder problems a V5 start leads to a good rest, to a V4 thru the pocket section to a final V5 core intensive move to the finish.
By djkyote
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c

while tightening the 4th and 5th nuts on Dope that like to loosen themselves, we discovered that the entire bolts are loose and can be moved up and down.