Dopamine, aka "Juicer", "Double Arete"  5.12d PG13

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Consensus:  5.12d [details] FA:  Bill Griffith and Dave Buzzelli New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  dbuzz on Jun 19, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bill working dopamine Photo: Gary Thomann

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Description 

The crux on this route is actually about endurance and clipping the last bolt. The climb is obvious and straight forward...climb the double arete to the top. The project was initially named the "Double Arete". Subsequently, it was named "Juicer" because of another obvious reason...you must squeeze the piss outta the block in order to get to the top. The climber responsible for bolting the line and sending the FA, Bill Griffith, and his partner, Dave Buzzelli, completed the climb back to back and would like to name the FA Dopamine.

Location 

This climb is located at the Dihedrals and is the obvious refrigerator block to the right of the prominent black arete and beautiful dihedral.

Protection 

The climb is protected with 4 bolts placed around 2004. The highest bolt was actually slightly misplaced, making for a difficult last clip. The climb has TR anchors.