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Dooser Wand

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alter Weg T 
No chance for Klemmkeil Manni S 
Westkante T,S 

Dooser Wand  


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Location: 49.82921, 11.33241 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 42
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Shawn Heath on Aug 26, 2013
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Description 

One of the bigger walls in the Frankenjura. And since this is a tall crag, that means there are some classic routes here - in the classical meaning of the word classic. They're very good, but not necessarily all 4-star routes. However, they are old with one being established in 1927! While there are some easier routes, the best are in the UIAA 7 and 8 range.

Getting There 

Get to Doos which is near Waischenfeld. From there, drive towards Waischenfeld. After about 2.5km there is a turn-off on the right to Oberailsfeld (Eichenbirkig). Turn here and park in the parking area on the left. Follow the hiker's trail for 150m (past the Große Dooser Welle) and follow the climber's trail up to reach the crag.

Climbing Season



Weather station 15.6 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Dooser Wand

No chance for Klemmkeil Manni 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Europe : Germany : ... : Dooser Wand
I thought I did this wrong to begin with, but apparently you really do finish that far to the right of the anchor Climb alter weg up until where it veers right, then continue up the arete and slab past 4 bolts to the anchor. The crux is rather cryptic, very technical, and lasts from the last bolt to the anchor. You should find yourself pretty far to the left and desperately stretching for the anchor. The first ascentionist said that was the safest place to place the anchor and safety preceeds co...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

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