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Tales from the Gripped S 

Doom 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tristan Higbee
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 540
Submitted By: Tristan Higbee on Aug 18, 2009

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Christian Burrell on Doom. At least, I'm pretty su...

Description 

Roofs, slabs, jugs, flakes, crimps, and slopers. This route delivers!

Starting left of the corner, climb up past three bolts to a roof. Climb up and over the roof to a vertical section with really good holds. This brings you to the steep crux. Pull down hard and fast on crimps to see if you can avoid the impending doom in your forearms until you get to the chains.

While no one particular move on the route is super hard, very few moves are super easy, for one reason or another. Maybe the rock is bad, maybe the holds are not quite as positive as they look, or maybe they're facing the wrong way. Regardless, this route offers quality climbing.

Location 

This route lies between the two main sections of routes on the Hidden. It climbs up the somewhat sinister-looking black water streaks. To the left of Tales From the Gripped is a steep dihedral. Doom climbs the obvious face to the left of the dihedral and to the right of a tree.

Protection 

10 bolts to ring anchors.


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By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 18, 2009

The only reason I'm not giving this route three stars is that it's still a bit dirty in a couple sections. After it gets more traffic, I'll climb it again and probably give it three stars. This thing is rad, intense, a bit burly, and climbs unlike anything else on the wall. I knocked a ton of loose rock off this route but it's unlikely I got everything. The belayer should stand a couple feet off to the right and any falling debris will completely miss him or her. Still, don't let that deter you! I really, really liked this route! It feels rather sinister and ominous (though the bolts are close together) and a lot of the moves leave you feeling a bit uneasy before you commit, hence the name.

(Also, this might be .11a... I'm bad at rating routes.)
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 18, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I'll go ahead and give it that 3rd star! Fantastic route.
Yeah, it's a bit dirty still but a new route is always going to be a bit dirty.
The character of the line changes 3 times: The lower section is much trickier than it looks; very technical. The roof is easy and fun, which leads to a strange section with lots of rests. It was just weirder than it looks like it should be. Then comes the climax: A steep sequential series of moves that is again, tougher than it looks at first. Many features that look like nice big holds turn out to be only so-so, if not total junk. This cruxy stuff keeps the pump going until you are basically at the chains.
In some ways, this is one of the best lines on the wall.
By Jon Bitter
From: Waco, Tx
Jun 4, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Be sure to rest in the middle section on the jugs! I just went for it and my arms gave out on the 8th bolt, so I had to go for the redpoint instead of the onsight. You might feel great so far, but the upper section is intense and you will need to be rested.
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
May 2, 2012

Climbed this today and it was pretty clean, and now it is one of the better routes on the wall. The route feels pretty soft until you get to the overhanging end and the pump rushes for you like a linebacker.
I really like how there were so many different styles on the route, and the nice rest right before the difficult finish makes it a lot of fun.
By Canyon Copa
May 29, 2012

Climbed this route without knowing the grade and as soon as I got to the overhanging section, the 11b rating smacked me across the face. A must do on this wall with some really good climbing to the finish.
By Tanner Bishoff
From: provo,ut
Jul 21, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

pulled a big piece off right above the chains almost killing my partner so be careful grabbing onto anything above the chains. other than that a great climb at a great wall