Doobie Dance 5.6
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.6 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown; 1970s |
| Submitted By: | John Hegyes on Sep 1, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Romper Room Right
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Description This climb goes up the left side of the steep, rectangular patch of black rock in the Romper Room Area. Finger cracks, varnished plates and large jug holds bring you to the top. Well protected. Rappel from a two bolt anchor with one 60m rope. This is a good climb for the beginner leader.
Protection Standard rack
BETA PHOTO: Leading Doobie Dance.
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BETA PHOTO: At the anchors on Doobie Dance (5.6)
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 7, 2008
rating: 5.7
| This is a fun lead, more interesting to me than the more popular Romper Room to the right. Don't think I'd call it a good beginner lead, though; some sections didn't seem 5.6-easy to me.
JL |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Apr 18, 2010
| Agreed - not really a good opener for a first 5.6 trad lead. As of 4/17/10 there's a jammed cam about 20 feet up, left very recently it seemed, either same day, or day before. |
By T. Gittins
From: bozeman
Jan 25, 2011
| Doobie dance was my first trad lead. Near the top I remember threading my largest nut through two holes in a bomber flake! |
By roger moore
Oct 29, 2012
| Oct 29, 2012
Did this last Friday; agree with a couple of the previous comments. Some sections seemed a little harder than 5.6ish --- I would not recommend this as a first trad lead. |
By Franzalopolis
From: Mass.
Mar 5, 2013
rating: 5.6
| There is a pretty cool finger crack 2/3 the way up, which could make the climb tougher if you have big hands. Otherwise, lots of foot placements. |
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