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|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.8 [details]|
|FA: ||Wes Thompson and Mitch Musci, September 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Summer through early Fall|
|Submitted By: ||Mitch Musci on Feb 10, 2011|
Wes approaching at sunrise.
A necromancer is one who communicates with the dead to predict the future. Well, it should be known that the first ascensionists are necromancers AND like donuts.
From Doughnut Lake, notice the descent gully that borders "Donut Buttress" on the left. Go southeast up tundra and rocks to the talus field where this descent gully terminates. From the talus field, scramble up and right on a loose ramp, then head up and left to the highest of several grassy ledges.
P1. (5.8, 160 feet) On the left side of the grassy ledge is a medium-sized, left-facing corner (not to be confused with the LARGE, left-facing corner in the center of Donut Buttress). Climb this (5.8 and mungy) or easier rock 40 feet right (probably 5.6) up to some nice slabs. Follow the slabs up and right to a small grassy ledge and belay (#4 Camalot).
P2. (5.8, 160 feet) From the belay, head up and left past a small, left-facing corner and climb some interesting slabs on good rock. You will pass the beginning of a prominent, hanging dihedral system that shoots out right for about 100 feet. (This dihedral system was our original goal but appeared to be a tricky nail-up on arrival) Continue another 40 feet to a small alcove with a good stance and belay.
P3. (5.6, 100 feet) Climb up out of the alcove and angle right on excellent slabs to the base of a sizable wall covered in exuberant yellow lichen. The large, left-facing dihedral appears to have a tricky start (perhaps 5.11 R) and face climbing into the corner from the left seems to also be 5.11 R. Set a belay on the sloping shelf at the base of the wall and ponder the possibilities.
P4. (5.8, 160 feet) Go straight left along the wall, round the corner and climb a nice face, staying right of the small roof band. More good rock leads to a fine belay shelf. Another 60 feet of exposed 4th class gets you to flatter ground.
From the top of the climb, turn towards Terra Tomah and descend the ridge until you reach the true saddle. There is a steep descent gully that goes straight back down to Doughnut Lake from here. Initially the gully is 3rd to 4th class with some loose rock. There are 2 prominient bottlenecks in the gully, the first is a 5.2ish downclimb. The second we rapped down and barely reached with a single 60m. You can downclimb this section at 5.7ish, but it's loose in spots and I didn't want to fall.
Another option is from the saddle, hike another 1/4 mile up towards Terra Tomah, then turn left and traverse over to a steep tundra ramp (2nd-3rd class) that heads back down to Doughnut Lake. If you move quickly, this option could be just as fast as the steeper descent gully but adds a half mile of hiking. Beware if it's storming at this point, because both descent options can be problematic...the steep tundra ramp will be VERY slick and the gully could see some rockfall.
Single rack of cams to 3 inches, set of nuts, and a #4 Camalot.
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Donut Necromancer with scrambling in yellow and cl...