All Locations > Colorado > Alpine Rock > RMNP - Rock > Mt Julian

Donut Necromancer

Name: Donut Necromancer
Rating: 1.0

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Mount Julian

L › R R › L A › Z

	Donut Necromancer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eyes Full of Ghosts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Pastries of Unusual Girth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches, Grade III
FA:	Wes Thompson and Mitch Musci, September 2010
Page Views:	893 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Mitch Musci on Feb 10, 2011
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

From Doughnut Lake, notice the descent gully that borders "Donut Buttress" on the left. Go southeast up tundra and rocks to the talusfield where this descent gully terminates. From the talusfield, scramble up and right on a loose ramp, then head up and left to the highest of several grassy ledges.

P1 (5.8, 160 feet). On the left side of the grassy ledge is a medium-sized, left-facing corner (not to be confused with the LARGE, left-facing corner in the center of Donut Buttress). Climb this (5.8 and mungy) or easier rock 40 feet right (probably 5.6) up to some nice slabs. Follow the slabs up and right to a small grassy ledge, and belay (#4 Camalot).

P2 (5.8, 160 feet). From the belay, head up and left past a small, left-facing corner and climb some interesting slabs on good rock. You will pass the beginning of a prominent, hanging dihedral system that shoots out right for about 100 feet (this dihedral system was our original goal but appeared to be a tricky nail-up on arrival). Continue another 40 feet to a small alcove with a good stance, and belay.

P3 (5.6, 100 feet). Climb up out of the alcove, and angle right on excellent slabs to the base of a sizable wall covered in exuberant yellow lichen. The large, left-facing dihedral appears to have a tricky start (perhaps 5.11 R), and face climbing into the corner from the left seems to also be 5.11 R. Set a belay on the sloping shelf at the base of the wall, and ponder the possibilities.

P4 (5.8, 160 feet). Go straight left along the wall, round the corner, and climb a nice face, staying right of the small roof band. More good rock leads to a fine belay shelf. Another 60 feet of exposed 4th Class gets you to flatter ground.

Descent:

From the top of the climb, turn towards Terra Tomah, and descend the ridge until you reach the true saddle. There is a steep descent gully that goes straight back down to Doughnut Lake from here. Initially the gully is 3rd to 4th Class with some loose rock. There are 2 prominent bottlenecks in the gully - the first is a 5.2ish downclimb. The second we rapped down and barely reached with a single 60m. In hindsight, there looks to be a downclimb on skier's right, probably 5.2.

Another option is from the saddle, hike another 1/4 mile up towards Terra Tomah, then turn left, and traverse over to a steep tundra ramp (2nd-3rd Class) that heads back down to Doughnut Lake.