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Mount Julian
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Donut Necromancer T 
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Donut Necromancer 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Wes Thompson and Mitch Musci, September 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer through early Fall
Page Views: 532
Submitted By: Mitch Musci on Feb 10, 2011

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Wes approaching at sunrise.

Description 

A necromancer is one who communicates with the dead to predict the future. Well, it should be known that the first ascensionists are necromancers AND like donuts.

From Doughnut Lake, notice the descent gully that borders "Donut Buttress" on the left. Go southeast up tundra and rocks to the talus field where this descent gully terminates. From the talus field, scramble up and right on a loose ramp, then head up and left to the highest of several grassy ledges.

P1. (5.8, 160 feet) On the left side of the grassy ledge is a medium-sized, left-facing corner (not to be confused with the LARGE, left-facing corner in the center of Donut Buttress). Climb this (5.8 and mungy) or easier rock 40 feet right (probably 5.6) up to some nice slabs. Follow the slabs up and right to a small grassy ledge and belay (#4 Camalot).

P2. (5.8, 160 feet) From the belay, head up and left past a small, left-facing corner and climb some interesting slabs on good rock. You will pass the beginning of a prominent, hanging dihedral system that shoots out right for about 100 feet. (This dihedral system was our original goal but appeared to be a tricky nail-up on arrival) Continue another 40 feet to a small alcove with a good stance and belay.

P3. (5.6, 100 feet) Climb up out of the alcove and angle right on excellent slabs to the base of a sizable wall covered in exuberant yellow lichen. The large, left-facing dihedral appears to have a tricky start (perhaps 5.11 R) and face climbing into the corner from the left seems to also be 5.11 R. Set a belay on the sloping shelf at the base of the wall and ponder the possibilities.

P4. (5.8, 160 feet) Go straight left along the wall, round the corner and climb a nice face, staying right of the small roof band. More good rock leads to a fine belay shelf. Another 60 feet of exposed 4th class gets you to flatter ground.

Descent:

From the top of the climb, turn towards Terra Tomah and descend the ridge until you reach the true saddle. There is a steep descent gully that goes straight back down to Doughnut Lake from here. Initially the gully is 3rd to 4th class with some loose rock. There are 2 prominient bottlenecks in the gully, the first is a 5.2ish downclimb. The second we rapped down and barely reached with a single 60m. In hindsight there looks to be a downclimb on skiier's right, probably 5.2.

Another option is from the saddle, hike another 1/4 mile up towards Terra Tomah, then turn left and traverse over to a steep tundra ramp (2nd-3rd class) that heads back down to Doughnut Lake.

Protection 

Single rack of cams to 3 inches, set of nuts, and a #4 Camalot.


Photos of Donut Necromancer Slideshow Add Photo
Wes routefinding.
Wes routefinding.
Wes.
Wes.
Doughnut Lake.
Doughnut Lake.
Cracktop, Chief Cheley, and Azure Lake from the saddle near Mount Ida. Highest Lake is barely visible.
BETA PHOTO: Cracktop, Chief Cheley, and Azure Lake from the sa...
Donut Necromancer with scrambling in yellow and climbing in red.
Donut Necromancer with scrambling in yellow and cl...

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