Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
The Grocery Store Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banana Chimney 
Banana Flip 
Banana Peel 
Banana Shake 
Blood Pudding 
Bozo No No 
Cactus Flower 
Caramel Corner 
Carmel Corner Layback 
Donut Hole 
Franktown Brewery 
Frosted Flake 
Gorilla Milk 
Gorilla Milk Direct 
Hamburger Helper 
Hot Fudge 
Hot Fudge (variation) 
Licorice Stick 
Peaches and Scream 
Pecan Pie 
Petrified Turd 
Pie In The Sky 
Pretzel Logic 
Pushing Buttons 
Rain Dance 
Rain Dance Crack 
Rainbow Bread 
Rat's Nest 
Scoop, The 
Shake and Bake 
Strawberry Jam 
Teething Biscuit 
Tortilla Flats 
You Name It 

Donut Hole 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

Type: TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ???
Page Views: 1,883
Submitted By: Jeremy Monahan on Sep 14, 2002
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Big reach to hole.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Above the undercling section of Hot Fudge, there is a huge hole/cave. This is the donut hole. The route heads straight up towards this feature. 5 feet above it, the route traverses right and finishes with the last section of Hot Fudge. This is located on a vertical face just right of the "1" in the picture It is crimpy, but it is a solid route.


The setup uses the same bolts as Hot Fudge.

Photos of Donut Hole Slideshow Add Photo
Donut Hole roof.
Donut Hole roof.
After clearing roof, tiny crimpers.
After clearing roof, tiny crimpers.
Going in the hole.  Exit right after hole or TRY* to continue up the blank face. <br />- Man, I wish this route was bolted.
Going in the hole. Exit right after hole or TRY* ...
Comments on Donut Hole Add Comment
Show which comments
From: Englewood, CO
May 1, 2003

Sure 'bout that 10+ rating? In the book it goes as 11a. If'n it is a ten, it's a hard one at that. One of my all time favorite Castlewood routes. Decided to give it a shot one day after passing it up on every previous visit due to its intimidating looks with the roof and all. Great moves. Kind of a pain to top rope; lots of rope drag. Definitely worth the effort!

By Ken McVicker
Aug 14, 2003
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

The description of this says to traverse right to Hot Fudge, but I traversed left to get to Hot Fudge as it is the undercling/corner to the left in the picture (and real life). This is a good route. It can only be protected from top roping. One or two tricky moves around the donut. It is a little crimpy, so a good warm up is in order. Warmup on Hot Fudge (5.8 to the left) or Peaches and Scream(5.6 to the right).

Just a note: we went on Wednesday in the middle of the day and encountered about 12-15 people at the Grovery Store Walls. Kind of crowded for a Wednesday. I guess they like hooky from work/school too.

This could have been rated lower because there are only 2-3 5.11 moves. But those moves are 5.11.

By Jeremy Monahan
From: Fort Fun, CO
Aug 28, 2003

I would tend to agree with you two about the .11a rating. At the time, I had not finished this route and could only speculate about the rest. I was also going off of friend's wisdom. Definitely a fun route, though. The reach coming off of the overhang is pretty stout. I am vertically challenged (we don't say short) and I had a tough time pulling this move. From here, it only gets tougher.

By Cassidy Hill
Sep 10, 2003

Ken, I agree with you about the stiff 5.10 rating, but I don't think that we did the same line. Donut Hole goes out the roof formed by the Hot Fudge undercling traverse towards the enormous hole in the middle of the face there, not the small one to the right of Hot Fudge. After gaining the enormous hueco, one definitely traverses right back to the finish of Hot Fudge (or creates a new, more difficult direct finish?).

From: Englewood, CO
Apr 26, 2004

Agreed, tougher direct finish. Haven't linked it all yet, but worked the moves. Crimpy, but definitely do-able. Try it out.

By kevin jenkins
Jun 30, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

I have to agree with ROC that this is a most difficult 10, most likely an 11a. It does get crimpy, and it is easy - too easy - to get pumped early. Linking up as many of the first 10-15 moves as you can, being efficient with your energy, you can do this with out an extended rest (if you can milk a rest at the knee-bar just below the upper crux, you'll be in good shape). Happy climbing!