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 ADVANCED
Grotto
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Don't Shoot, I'm Only the Belayer T,S 
If You Can Climb It, You Can Condemn It T,S 
Safety Blade, The S 
Stems From Controversy T,S 

Don't Shoot, I'm Only the Belayer 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Brent Kertzman & Barry Unke May 1993
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on May 1, 2003

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Description 

This route is the rightmost of the four routes on this wall. Start up a finger/thin hand crack from the ledge at base of route. Upon the termination of the crack follow the bolted line to the anchors. Prepare to dig deep into your quiver of techniques for this route. The story behind the name is as follows. Burt Lindquist was belaying Brent on top rope to mark bolt positions. Brent summited and was preparing to lower and drill bolts. A NPS ranger came driving down the now gated road about the time Brent was going to lower off with the drill in hand. The ranger stopped and checked out the scene then moved on. Burt was worried and asked Brent what to do if the ranger approached. Brent replied "tell him don't shoot, I'm only the belayer".


Protection 

One Set of Stoppers, Cams to 2", 14 Quickdraws



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By Ryan Minton
Jun 30, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Great climb for sure. Thoughtful moves followed by good rests make this route a must do! I found the lower section of the climb to be the most strenuous, but the upper section had it's moments as well! Protection bolts are placed right where you need them, and a #1 Camalot and ~#8 BD Stopper can be used to protect the gear section. The route is definitely rated 10d for someone who knows the moves. The onsight rating might be 11a- getting it first try with no beta is a challenge! Go do it!