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 ADVANCED
Reflector Oven
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Chasm Crack T 
Crackin, The T 
Don't Pro the Flake Bro T,S 
Loki T,S 
Parker Route, The T,S 
Report to Sickbay T 
Strawberry Fields T 
Sunday Crack Fix T 
Unknown T,S 
Vegetated Crack, The T 
When Natural Law Fails T 
Unsorted Routes:

Don't Pro the Flake Bro 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 190'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Steve Curtis?
Page Views: 547
Submitted By: Andre Dahlman on Feb 24, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Route photo of Don't Pro the Flake Bro

Description 

Best done in 2 pitches. Start at bolt 10 feet right of Return to Sickbay. Climb past large flake - pro to the left if you pro at all - and climb line of bolts. Difficulty rises as you ascend. Belay at the upper anchors of Sickbay. 2nd pitch begins with bolt and then moves right to arching crack. Move past roof, clip bolt, climb either the crack to the right or step left for another bolt. Beautiful belay spot at the top of the slab.

Note to shorter climbers: upper section contains a very reachy 5.11 move.

Location 

10 feet right of Return to Sickbay.

Be very careful on the descent. Rapping from the top with 60 meter rope is pretty sketchy - you might get there depending on rope stretch. A tree 20 feet above the Sickbay anchors can be used as an intermediate station if need be.

Protection 

9 bolts, Aliens, RPs, Nuts and 1 Red BD cam.

Upper pitch contains short section of 5.10 R climbing but very manageable if you can climb the lower pitch.


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