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Climb up jugs in the overhang and climb the concave face with a thin seam above. The crux is just above the overhang and is hard to protect. A #6 Camalot can be placed in a big pod just above the overhang and a ball nut will go in the seam about 6' higer. There is no other pro to protect the crux moves. Above, the climbing gets easier and a crack, slightly to the right, leads to the rap tree. This upper crack takes good gear.
This is on the right side of the buttress located below and to the southwest of the Potato Chip. The climb is about 10' left of Mountain Jam.
SR with a #6 Camalot and Ballnuts.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 28, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
I didn't have any really wide gear as mentioned for the pod over the overhang. I was able to protect the crux pretty well though on a #4 BD stopper placed in a small opening of a small seam just left of the main crack just above the roof and it was VERY bomber when placed concave-side to the left, as it went back behind a lump and locked deeply into the crack. Placed facing the other way it was so-so at best. I played with this a few times before committing to it confidently. The crux moves to follow are thin and balance-oriented, and this may be your only pro....