Don't Cry Over Spilt Milt
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|Type: ||TR, Ice, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus: ||WI4 [details]|
|Season: ||Weather dependent|
|Submitted By: ||Nathan Stokes on Feb 27, 2011|
BETA PHOTO: Don't Cry over Spilt Milt goes up the depression c...
Climb on the left side of the fin created by the waterfall in the Upper Gorge. The right side of the fin is Salmon Steak. Ascend the ice between the Fin on climbers right and the terraced features on climbers left that make up Salmon Ladder. Difficulty is as hard as the line you choose. Topping out on this route may involve some thrutching through organic material due to the nature of the cliff at the top. This is a waterfall route and not a hanging pillar to conditions vary greatly with the season.
Upper Gorge to the left of Salmon steak. Rap in from above. This route, Salmon Ladder and Salmon Steak are all reached by heading to the cliff after the second bridge. Unless it has been super cold and snowy the stream that feeds Salmon Steak is usually open to some degree and provides a landmark.
Top rope off of slung trees at the top. A couple of extra long cordaletts and some 48" slings are necessary to set a good anchor.
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Clearing one of the two "crux" bulges in 2011
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