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Don't buy Petzl Dragonfly half ropes.
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By J Q
May 11, 2012
Me again!

I thought they were made by Beal but no matter, their sheaths are just as lame and their durability is highly questionable. I thought everyone already knew this. Petzel everything but their ropes.


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By Kevin Craig
May 12, 2012
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd

Jonhy Q wrote:
I thought they were made by Beal but no matter, their sheaths are just as lame and their durability is highly questionable. I thought everyone already knew this. Petzel everything but their ropes.


Really? Petzl everything? Like the New Nomic v. 1.0, the GriGri2 v. 1.0? They once spent the extra time and effort to ensure that every product was solid, often trailing the market in the process. Now, who knows what they're doing? Too many major failures within a few weeks of new product release.


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By The Word
May 12, 2012

Petzl ropes are made by Cousin in France. Cousin makes ropes for many french brands like Millet, Petzl, and Simond. Probably other brands as well.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
May 12, 2012
Bocan

The Word wrote:
Petzl ropes are made by Cousin in France. Cousin makes ropes for many french brands like Millet, Petzl, and Simond. Probably other brands as well.


Haven't heard bad things about millet. Simond I've heard iffy things about their climbing gear, but the Euros seem to like it. Wonder what went wrong with Petzl's ropes.

Either way sounds like the customer service is a -20


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By Nelson Day
From Joshua Tree, CA
Jul 26, 2012
me (about to sneeze)

I really like my PMI verglas ropes. Have been using them about a year and the sheath is still great, they handle well, and more importantly they held during a 35 foot whipper (was a 185 foot pitch and I fell at the very top).

I had a Petzl Zephyr. Never again. The sheath didn't hold up well at all, and I had to retire it after about 6 months.

I have a bi-color 70m blue water dominator, double dry, and it has turned out to be a fantastic rope as well. Was twisty for a while, but eventually it evened out and now it's great.


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By dancesatmoonrise
Jul 28, 2012
avatar

One more thumbs-down for the Petzl Zephyr. And two thumbs up to REI for taking care of it. Here's my experience.

Bought the Zephyr for the incredibly low impact force (something like 7.3 kn) to be the lead rope for scary routes, long run-outs, and roped-solo climbs. So I babied it.

After about two uses (no falls, hangs, or takes) the sheath began to show significant wear. This bothered me, and I thought about taking it back to REI, but also thought how they would only have to destroy it, so decided just to keep an eye on it.

Then about two weeks ago, I'm first up on a route, struggling before the crux, so I know it ain't my day, and there's four others, so I figure give someone else a shot. I make the clip above me, ask my belayer to take, and hop off. Expecting to go a few feet, I'm whizzing through the air wondering what happened and whether I'm comin' home to Elizabeth with the big one.

About 15-20 feet go by. Fortunately, clean air on overhanging rock. So I ask my belayer what happened. She didn't know. No slack in the system. Two other guys confirm it, she had all the slack out before I went.

So I get to thinking, what the heck is the dynamic elongation on this rope? This is nuts. If this were over a buttress or other feature, I'd have been hosed. And I was below the last piece. Scary.

So I decide to return it to REI. And found this thread, and the one on Rockclimbingdotcom, which cinched it. REI took it back with no fuss. They even transferred the 20% coupon used for the Petzl, to order a new rope - the Mammut Super Safe. Seems like a great rope so far. Thanks, REI!

So not sure what happened with the initial wear and the really un-spec'd elongation on that Petzl, but yeah, I'm with you guys. No more Petzl ropes. Can't believe they won't fess up to some clear issues.

REI gets my monthly tithing for sure - but times like this make it so worth it.


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By lperitz22
From Los Angeles, CA
Aug 3, 2012
....

dancesatmoonrise wrote:
One more thumbs-down for the Petzl Zephyr. And two thumbs up to REI for taking care of it.


Just checked this thread again... so many bad experiences with Petzl ropes. Glad to hear you're okay after a scary leader fall. REI customer service is the best! Petzl could learn a lot from REI on this count...


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By 20 kN
From Hawaii
Aug 14, 2012

I spoke with a Petzl rep a few weeks back. I informed him of the masses of people having problems with the Zypher rope. He said he has not heard of a single person having issues with that rope and he mentioned that Petzl would be quick to take the rope back if it was defective. Clearly he was not in the know.


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By MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Aug 19, 2012

Just saw this thread and wanted to throw in that I briefly owned a pair of 70m Dragonflies which lasted exactly eight pitches of pure ice before both had core shots. Petzl refused to do anything warranty-wise... whoever said something about them being condescending and accusing the customer of being at fault, yeah, that was my experience too.

This isn't the only instance where I've heard of self-destructing Petzl ropes. JUNK! Put me on the list of people who will never buy another.


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By wankel7
From Indiana
Aug 19, 2012

I think this thread has enough meat to it...forward a link petzl....


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By OldManRiver
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 20, 2012
Red Rock, Cannibal crag

Have a Petzl 10.1 Zion 60m. Had it outdoors about a dozen times with minor lead falls of <20'. The sheath is frayed in maybe 10 spots, some continuous, and this is from pretty basic use on well traveled/highly protected routes.

Very unhappy with the durability and considering returning to Petzl out of principle regardless of what comes of it.


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By Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Aug 20, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey

Mammut all the way. Good thread guys. Thanks for the info


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2012
Bocan

I have two petzl fuses (60 / 70m) and I'm pretty grateful that I haven't had any of the issues anyone else has. They've actually been fine. A stiff rope, but no sheath or core issues at all.

Knock on wood.


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By Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Aug 20, 2012
Rewritten

MaxSuffering wrote:
Just saw this thread and wanted to throw in that I briefly owned a pair of 70m Dragonflies which lasted exactly eight pitches of pure ice before both had core shots. Petzl refused to do anything warranty-wise... whoever said something about them being condescending and accusing the customer of being at fault, yeah, that was my experience too. This isn't the only instance where I've heard of self-destructing Petzl ropes. JUNK! Put me on the list of people who will never buy another.



I had a pair of dragonflies... one got a core shot on the second use from a no-event rappel... Petzl did offer to do something about it. They gave me a new rope at a "pro deal" which worked out to a whopping 4% off the lowest advertised price... but I figured it was a fluke occurrence, and bought another rope, which got a core shot within 2 trips. Sold them here for 10% of the retail price after cutting a few few feet off the new rope...

I will never buy a petzl rope again, and honestly, I am inclined to not buy their other products as well (switched from Petzl to BD harnesses, etc.) I did own a Petzl Nomad which lasted 1.5 years and was a nice rope, but the dragonfly experience definitely soured me on their quality.


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