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Don't buy Petzl Dragonfly half ropes.
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May 12, 2012
KC on Fields (medium).  Photo (c) Doug Shepherd
Jonhy Q wrote:
I thought they were made by Beal but no matter, their sheaths are just as lame and their durability is highly questionable. I thought everyone already knew this. Petzel everything but their ropes.


Really? Petzl everything? Like the New Nomic v. 1.0, the GriGri2 v. 1.0? They once spent the extra time and effort to ensure that every product was solid, often trailing the market in the process. Now, who knows what they're doing? Too many major failures within a few weeks of new product release.
Kevin Craig
Joined Mar 20, 2002
448 points
May 12, 2012
Petzl ropes are made by Cousin in France. Cousin makes ropes for many french brands like Millet, Petzl, and Simond. Probably other brands as well. The Word
Joined Feb 5, 2012
0 points
May 12, 2012
Bocan
The Word wrote:
Petzl ropes are made by Cousin in France. Cousin makes ropes for many french brands like Millet, Petzl, and Simond. Probably other brands as well.


Haven't heard bad things about millet. Simond I've heard iffy things about their climbing gear, but the Euros seem to like it. Wonder what went wrong with Petzl's ropes.

Either way sounds like the customer service is a -20
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Jul 26, 2012
profile pic
I really like my PMI verglas ropes. Have been using them about a year and the sheath is still great, they handle well, and more importantly they held during a 35 foot whipper (was a 185 foot pitch and I fell at the very top).

I had a Petzl Zephyr. Never again. The sheath didn't hold up well at all, and I had to retire it after about 6 months.

I have a bi-color 70m blue water dominator, double dry, and it has turned out to be a fantastic rope as well. Was twisty for a while, but eventually it evened out and now it's great.
Nelson Day
From Joshua Tree, CA
Joined Nov 13, 2010
1,308 points
Jul 28, 2012
avatar
One more thumbs-down for the Petzl Zephyr. And two thumbs up to REI for taking care of it. Here's my experience.

Bought the Zephyr for the incredibly low impact force (something like 7.3 kn) to be the lead rope for scary routes, long run-outs, and roped-solo climbs. So I babied it.

After about two uses (no falls, hangs, or takes) the sheath began to show significant wear. This bothered me, and I thought about taking it back to REI, but also thought how they would only have to destroy it, so decided just to keep an eye on it.

Then about two weeks ago, I'm first up on a route, struggling before the crux, so I know it ain't my day, and there's four others, so I figure give someone else a shot. I make the clip above me, ask my belayer to take, and hop off. Expecting to go a few feet, I'm whizzing through the air wondering what happened and whether I'm comin' home to Elizabeth with the big one.

About 15-20 feet go by. Fortunately, clean air on overhanging rock. So I ask my belayer what happened. She didn't know. No slack in the system. Two other guys confirm it, she had all the slack out before I went.

So I get to thinking, what the heck is the dynamic elongation on this rope? This is nuts. If this were over a buttress or other feature, I'd have been hosed. And I was below the last piece. Scary.

So I decide to return it to REI. And found this thread, and the one on Rockclimbingdotcom, which cinched it. REI took it back with no fuss. They even transferred the 20% coupon used for the Petzl, to order a new rope - the Mammut Super Safe. Seems like a great rope so far. Thanks, REI!

So not sure what happened with the initial wear and the really un-spec'd elongation on that Petzl, but yeah, I'm with you guys. No more Petzl ropes. Can't believe they won't fess up to some clear issues.

REI gets my monthly tithing for sure - but times like this make it so worth it.
dancesatmoonrise
Joined Apr 3, 2011
749 points
Aug 3, 2012
....
dancesatmoonrise wrote:
One more thumbs-down for the Petzl Zephyr. And two thumbs up to REI for taking care of it.


Just checked this thread again... so many bad experiences with Petzl ropes. Glad to hear you're okay after a scary leader fall. REI customer service is the best! Petzl could learn a lot from REI on this count...
lperitz22
From Los Angeles, CA
Joined Aug 25, 2008
48 points
Administrator
Aug 14, 2012
I spoke with a Petzl rep a few weeks back. I informed him of the masses of people having problems with the Zypher rope. He said he has not heard of a single person having issues with that rope and he mentioned that Petzl would be quick to take the rope back if it was defective. Clearly he was not in the know. 20 kN
From Hawaii
Joined Feb 2, 2009
665 points
Aug 19, 2012
Just saw this thread and wanted to throw in that I briefly owned a pair of 70m Dragonflies which lasted exactly eight pitches of pure ice before both had core shots. Petzl refused to do anything warranty-wise... whoever said something about them being condescending and accusing the customer of being at fault, yeah, that was my experience too.

This isn't the only instance where I've heard of self-destructing Petzl ropes. JUNK! Put me on the list of people who will never buy another.
MaxSuffering
From KVNY
Joined Jul 25, 2012
0 points
Aug 19, 2012
I think this thread has enough meat to it...forward a link petzl.... wankel7
From Indiana
Joined Oct 4, 2010
17 points
Aug 20, 2012
Red Rock, Cannibal crag
Have a Petzl 10.1 Zion 60m. Had it outdoors about a dozen times with minor lead falls of <20'. The sheath is frayed in maybe 10 spots, some continuous, and this is from pretty basic use on well traveled/highly protected routes.

Very unhappy with the durability and considering returning to Petzl out of principle regardless of what comes of it.
OldManRiver
From Cottonwood Heights, UT
Joined Jul 18, 2012
75 points
Aug 20, 2012
When I was a bum at Frey
Mammut all the way. Good thread guys. Thanks for the info Medic741
From Pittsford, New York
Joined Apr 1, 2012
80 points
Aug 20, 2012
Bocan
I have two petzl fuses (60 / 70m) and I'm pretty grateful that I haven't had any of the issues anyone else has. They've actually been fine. A stiff rope, but no sheath or core issues at all.

Knock on wood.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
927 points
Aug 20, 2012
Rewritten
MaxSuffering wrote:
Just saw this thread and wanted to throw in that I briefly owned a pair of 70m Dragonflies which lasted exactly eight pitches of pure ice before both had core shots. Petzl refused to do anything warranty-wise... whoever said something about them being condescending and accusing the customer of being at fault, yeah, that was my experience too. This isn't the only instance where I've heard of self-destructing Petzl ropes. JUNK! Put me on the list of people who will never buy another.



I had a pair of dragonflies... one got a core shot on the second use from a no-event rappel... Petzl did offer to do something about it. They gave me a new rope at a "pro deal" which worked out to a whopping 4% off the lowest advertised price... but I figured it was a fluke occurrence, and bought another rope, which got a core shot within 2 trips. Sold them here for 10% of the retail price after cutting a few few feet off the new rope...

I will never buy a petzl rope again, and honestly, I am inclined to not buy their other products as well (switched from Petzl to BD harnesses, etc.) I did own a Petzl Nomad which lasted 1.5 years and was a nice rope, but the dragonfly experience definitely soured me on their quality.
Julius Beres
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jun 27, 2008
177 points
May 1, 2014
A few years ago (~2011), when I got my first pair of 70 m dragonflies, one of the two got core shot on the first climb out of the wrapper. To be fair, it got snagged while pulling on a multi-pitch climb, and I did some serious yanking and whipping to get it free. Regardless, I'd never had a rope get core shot like that before, and I didn't feel like I'd been that rough on it. I sent it back to Petzl, they agreed that it was core shot and said tough luck, I argued, and they eventually sold me another at wholesale and mailed it my way.

Again, first time out of the wrapper, the new rope immediately got core shot, this time on a 60-70 rappel on a slab, so technically not even fully hanging on the lines. Again, I sent it back to Petzl, they agreed that it was trashed, and again said tough luck. This time, I took a hard line with them, told them they had a dangerous product, needed to own up to it, and told them I'd start spreading the word. They eventually gave in and sent me a new rope on them, but I had to haggle to get them to pay shipping.

At the time, I checked online and couldn't find anybody talking about the problem. I just pulled them out and unwrapped rope number 3 (the first one, to their credit, still seems to be hanging in there, although there are some soft spots that I'm keeping an eye on), and I figured I'd see if people had started speaking up. Glad to see they have.

Don't buy these ropes, and don't let Petzl get away with robbing you of your money. If my experience and the experience of all the other people on this forum are any guide, Dragonflies are, at best, a risky bet. Better off with Beal... or anything, really.
ARMoss
Joined Apr 22, 2013
45 points
May 1, 2014
ducking ropes at Copper
Edelrid is quickly becoming my favorite. A long time climbing buddy of mine saw one of my Edelrids and asked if I just bought it... It is two years old with at least 2 days per week average on it. No dry treatment or anything and it is still holding up immaculately. ChefMattThaner
From Lakewood, co
Joined May 15, 2013
349 points
May 1, 2014
The traverse out to the Yellow Ridge on the Dogsti...
I'm on my third or maybe fourth pair Mammut Genesis 8.5's. They've been indestructible---I've felt it prudent to retire each of the previous sets by virtue of time in service and total usage, but honestly, they still looked fine.

The latest set seems to me to kink more easily than the previous ones, but this could be because I am using different devices for rappelling.
rgold
From Poughkeepsie, NY
Joined Feb 15, 2008
288 points
May 2, 2014
FYI, Cousin no longer manufactures Petzl ropes. The new rope line is manufactured by Edelrid. My guess is that we'll see a huge improvement. Derek Doucet
Joined Apr 26, 2010
186 points
May 2, 2014
Derek Doucet wrote:
FYI, Cousin no longer manufactures Petzl ropes. The new rope line is manufactured by Edelrid. My guess is that we'll see a huge improvement.


Interesting- I was wondering who took over their rope line. Glad to hear it was Edelrid- Cousin couldn't get it right after two full revamps of the line.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,393 points
May 2, 2014
Climbing at Morro Anhangava in Southern Brasil.  (...
rgold wrote:
I'm on my third or maybe fourth pair Mammut Genesis 8.5's. They've been indestructible---I've felt it prudent to retire each of the previous sets by virtue of time in service and total usage, but honestly, they still looked fine. The latest set seems to me to kink more easily than the previous ones, but this could be because I am using different devices for rappelling.


I loved my Genesis doubles. They were bombproof all the way. Mammut makes a good rope overall, too. I have a 60m single made by them and I love that, too.
GMBurns
Joined Jul 15, 2008
523 points
Administrator
May 2, 2014
Offwidth time
I've nearly only had Mammuts, love them, no issues.
I've owned the Genesis, indestructible!
Second doubles were the Sterling duetos, great ropes as well.
I'm now using the Mammut Phoenix, pleased, starting my second season with them, they wear a bit faster but we'll see how they fare.
Luc
From Montreal, Quebec
Joined Nov 27, 2006
7,755 points
Administrator
May 4, 2014
JSH @ home  photo courtesy of Gabe Ostriker
I should update that Petzl sent me a Xion 10.1 single to replace the Xephyr that I complained about earlier in this thread. Thus far, a couple dozen days of use (our primary ropes are Mammut doubles) it's behaved like a perfectly average rope, even after a few days out on Vegas sandstone. JSH
Joined Apr 3, 2007
1,064 points
May 6, 2014
lperitz22 wrote:
I recently bought Petzl Dragonfly 60m half ropes. They are bad. The very first time I used them the sheath tore exposing the core of the ropes. This was from normal wear and tear - no falls or sharp edges. I sent the damaged ropes back to Petzl for warranty and they could not offer me anything; not even covering the shipping cost for the return. I now learned that other people have had similar problems with Petzl ropes, so I recommend you avoid Petzl ropes altogether.



My experience with Petzl dragonflies was not good as well. I use mine only for ice climbing. after maybe 12 or so climbs, No falls or anything out of the ordinary; the sheath started to fuzz badly and the dry treatment wore off.
which caused balls of rope fuzz to freeze and gunk up the ATC on rappel.
now those twins are being used as line for a boat anchor and the other is now part of a jungle-gym in the back yard
Jeff J
From Bozeman
Joined Sep 15, 2010
108 points
May 6, 2014
Down low, before the Y and the Railroad couloirs s...
Glad that I saw this thread. I have a lot of Petzl gear, but won't be buying their ropes until I see some good reviews (assuming they use a new manufacturer).
To the people that say that all the other brands have great customer service, I say nay. BlueWater totally screwed me up one time. I had a rope that was defective (had a "slub" if you know what that is). The Bluewater rep that comes around to the stores wanted to screw me over. My local store owner (Peace Surplus, in Flagstaff, AZ) applied pressure to Bluewater headquarters, and I got a new rope (after at least 4 months). Not the same though (smaller diameter, with lower specs). Kudos to my local store for helping me out, but I'll never buy Bluewater again.
Tom Nyce
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Nov 16, 2010
36 points
May 7, 2014
Ziggy Piggy, Welsford NB
Had a set of dragon fly, used 4ish seasons of 50-60 ice days each, well taken care of they where very good to me, just retired them and got myself a set of petzl Paso 7.7, so far so good! Theriault
From Oromocto NB Canada
Joined Apr 13, 2011
102 points
May 7, 2014
Indy pass
Glad to hear they were picked up by a different manufacturer. I just picked up a pair of twins/halves (Tangos petzl.com/us/outdoor/verticali... from their new line of ropes for a trip to CA. I'll post up about my experiences when I get back, they look really nice right now at least :) Jason N.
From Grand Junction
Joined Mar 18, 2011
23 points


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