Darin Limvere onsighting "Gun Fight" in the rain. ...
Formerly known as "Knife Guys Finish First" (A3). Start on pedestal in corner (Same start as for "Withering Heights" a super dirty and loose 5.11). Sustained thin crack climbing with good pro throughout. Start is protected with two pieces of fixed gear. After that it's small to medium TCU's and/or Aliens. Very good rest in the middle when you need it. Follow crack/shallow-dihedral to dirty alcove 25' from top. At alcove, move left 3' to clean widening crack and follow it to the belay perch.
On the north face of North Tower (prominent buttress N of "Mack The Knife"). The climb ascends the distinct, left trending S-shaped crack system on the northern side of the Tower. Set up anchors on top of the tower to hang over the edge at the nice belay perch 5' below top of tower. Rap to the base of tower (route starts on top of pedestal). NOTE: A 60M rope just makes it to the bottom with rope stretch. If you want to TR, do it from a top belay set up and make sure you place a couple directional's as you rap/lower to the start (a couple small cams to 1" and a draw for upper fixed piece should do it).
Bring full trad rack, Cams up to #2 Camalot. Heavy on small to medium cams.
This is a really fine route but to put it in the same class as "Poseidon Adventure"is to render the star rating system moot (sorry James). The latter merits four stars, the former at least one less. I'd say generally folks could be a little less enthusiastic.
That's the Rick we all know and love. Mr. sour grapes (grin). I hear ya on Poseidon being a higher quality route. No debate there but I think the "enthusiasm" for Gunfight comes from the fact that it is a well protected route at a moderately "hard" grade. It's the only 5.11- at P-head that most climbers who's maximum current ability is 5.11 can onsite. Poseidon is well harder and the pro is not that great, therefore it doesn't get led very much. When it does it is almost always done by climbers who are MUCH stronger then the route requires. I changed my star rating to reflect your comments but I am confident that Gunfight will get climbed (led) WAY more than Poseidon in the years to come. I will admit however that Popularity does not always coincide with quality. Just look at most movies, music and politics…
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Jun 23, 2008 rating: 5.11b6c23VIII-23E3 5c
just a fun, lovely route. bomber fingers, techy feet, sequential crux.
What a great route! One of if not my favorite routes at Palisade... Awesome movement at the bottom that is only slightly marred by the climbing at the end. It was a pleasure belaying Randy on this route and seconding it.