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As you stand in the major parking area wondering if you'll be able to find a warm-up with no parties camped on it at the Super Crack, Donnelly, Battle of the Bulge cluster, look northwest. You can't miss seeing the well-traveled splitter Generic Crack. This is the most prominent feature on the Donnelly Canyon wall. Donnelly Canyon is home to several moderate climbs and consequently, hordes of gumbies. However, this is Indian Creek and there are several good lines on this wall.
Look for the major parking lot on the right about 4 miles or so past Newspaper Rock. The wall for Donnelly is the one on the west that is more or less perpendicular to the road.
27 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Donnelly Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Donnelly Canyon:
Binou's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch
Chocolate Corner 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Generic Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a Trad
The Thing 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
5.10 Corner 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 80'
Elephant Man 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
The Naked and Dead 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b R Trad
The Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Trad
Mr. Peanut 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Unknown 5.10+ (left of Naked and the Dead) 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Unknown Pod Climb. 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Sleeve of Wizard 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Trad, 105'
Naked and the Dead Variation 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 40'
Twitterpated 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Trad, 70'
Dos Hermanos 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Trad
Fuel Injected Hardbody 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Let 'er Buck 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 100'
Ocean Negro 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b Trad, 3 pitches, 250'
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ E7 6c Trad, 80'
Featured Route For Donnelly Canyon
Dos Hermanos 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a UT : Moab Area : ... : Donnelly Canyon
This climb is truly incredible. The greatest part is that its nice hard climbing that varies incredibly in size, its not the same move all the way to the chains. Dos Hermanos is located to the left of the Drainpipe Corner and to the right of the Elephant route and chocolate corner. Just look for the sweet looking crack busting right through the middle of the huge roof. Start by heading up a system of twin cracks. Actually the left one is a crack, but you can't really get you're feet into it caus...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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