Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
New Sandstone Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Donkey On My Mind T 
High Traverse T 
Kingsbury Cruise T 
Kingsbury Non-Alcoholic Arete T 
Laser Beam T 
Shaking Hands With The Chimp T 
Wet Paper Bag T 

Donkey On My Mind 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Sangdahl, Bechler, Moir
Season: Spring, summer, fapp
Page Views: 1,793
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Nov 6, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Another picture dug up from the past. Climber: Rh...

Please note that the New Sandstone area is currently closed to climbing.

Description 

Donkey On My Mind is the clean cut overhanging dihedral on the left side of the wall. It is the best protected .12 in the park, as well as one of the purest crack climbs. The start takes some effort and leads quickly to the crux which will force you to drop the clutch/crotch. While cranking the feet up to your ears may be easier for shorter folks, the near everlasting reach above will keep things even. While this route is a one trick pony, it is also one of the best tricks you will do.

Protection 

A few cams (a #1 camalot for the top), some medium wires.


Photos of Donkey On My Mind Slideshow Add Photo
Knower on DD
Knower on DD
Rhoads sticking the crux of Donkey <br /> <br />a long time ago..... <br /> <br />Photo from the John Knoernschild archive
Rhoads sticking the crux of Donkey

a long time ag...
Rhoads past the crux. Last piece placed, heading for the top. <br /> <br />Photo from the John Knoernschild archive
Rhoads past the crux. Last piece placed, heading f...
Knower on DD <br />VICTORY!
Knower on DD
VICTORY!
Knower on DD
Knower on DD
The classic Donkey on my mind move.
The classic Donkey on my mind move.
Knower on DD
Knower on DD

Comments on Donkey On My Mind Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ed Wright
Jun 13, 2007

It should be noted that this area is still off limits to climbers so be careful and don't get caught.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Sep 8, 2007
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Cool route with a really hard crux!
By Alex A
Jun 3, 2009

One the safest 5.12 leads in the park, my only 5.12 lead at the lake, but not clean, it was closed so after, never got the redpoint,
they say this route got 1 to 2 letter grades easer, after sticky rubber came out,