Brian starts the crux in the dark at the top of Do...
Climb the arete on the right side of the South face, working mostly around the corner in the tall narrow pocket. The climb consists of a large juggy haul up an overhung section of the rock, with a fun reachy finish at the top.
For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.
Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is not on the top of the climb, but over the bulge.
I did 11C version. Unlike other Castle Rock routes which are full of slopers, the 11C version is full of big holds! (except for the 2 holds before reaching the finalhold). This reminds me of limestone cliffs back in Japan.The grade may be easy till the last crux move. So, go for it!
I can't believe the dong is gone! This climb was one of my first 11 sends, I was pretty psyched on it. I guess we all knew it was only a matter of time since you could see daylight in that fissure between the dong and the wall. It should be renamed simply Donkey now.