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Routes in Indian Rock
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[Redacted] T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Blowing Bubbles S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cave route TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dismal Abysmal TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Donkey Dong S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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High On Testosterone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hocus S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jail Bird S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jail Bird Direct S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Krokus T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Puckered Starfish S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shag Rug TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strip Poker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Viscious Circles S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | David Caunt |
| Page Views: | 12,814 total · 48/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jul 6, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
Climb the arete on the right side of the South face, working mostly around the corner in the tall narrow pocket. The climb consists of a large juggy haul up an overhung section of the rock, with a fun reachy finish at the top.
For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.
Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.
For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.
Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.
Protection
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is not on the top of the climb, but over the bulge. If you want to toprope this climb bring either two single length slings or a double length quad or equalized sling for the anchor.
There are quick links on both anchor bolts, however the bolts are on either side of a fin which would be a nightmare to try to pass rope over, more worth it to either lower off of one of the bolts’ quicklinks or leave draws up there and clean them by scrambling along the summit arête to the top of the route.
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