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Donkey Dong 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: David Caunt
Page Views: 2,967
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Jul 7, 2002
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Brian starts the crux in the dark at the top of Do...


Climb the arete on the right side of the South face, working mostly around the corner in the tall narrow pocket. The climb consists of a large juggy haul up an overhung section of the rock, with a fun reachy finish at the top.

For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.

Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is not on the top of the climb, but over the bulge.

Photos of Donkey Dong Slideshow Add Photo
beta photo
BETA PHOTO: beta photo
The last move of Donkey Dong.  Perhaps my greatest sport climbing feat to date.
The last move of Donkey Dong. Perhaps my greatest...
Around the corner, which comprises most of the climbing on donkey dong.
BETA PHOTO: Around the corner, which comprises most of the cli...
The Donkey Dong Arete, now minus the Dong.
BETA PHOTO: The Donkey Dong Arete, now minus the Dong.
Comments on Donkey Dong Add Comment
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By Brian Quiter
From: Oakland, CA
Jul 9, 2002

If you plan on doing the 12a finish, i would suggest clearing the moss first, because right now its really mossy.

By Anonymous Coward
Sep 11, 2002

I did 11C version. Unlike other Castle Rock routes which are full of slopers, the 11C version is full of big holds! (except for the 2 holds before reaching the finalhold). This reminds me of limestone cliffs back in Japan.The grade may be easy till the last crux move. So, go for it!

By Blitzo
Sep 12, 2006

I couldn't pull it, but it looks cool!

By brendan gagnon
From: San Jose, CA
Jun 21, 2010
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Since the dong fell, it goes much easier now.

By Tommy L-D
Jun 24, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Checked it out yesterday, the Dong is indeed gone. Gives me a little peace of mind not having to pull/avoid pulling on that thing.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Sep 14, 2010

I can't believe the dong is gone! This climb was one of my first 11 sends, I was pretty psyched on it. I guess we all knew it was only a matter of time since you could see daylight in that fissure between the dong and the wall. It should be renamed simply Donkey now.

By KyleAnderson
From: San Francisco, CA
Oct 6, 2010

i would like to call it dong-less donkey

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Nov 5, 2010

Dong-less Donkey is pretty good. Or maybe Donkey Vah-jay-jay?

By Cody Hanson
Apr 19, 2013

So how hard is this thing now, post-breakage?