Fun crux sequence, but definitely a one-move-wonder type of route. As it is not very sustained, "Donde Estan Mis Pantalones" seemed a little easier to me than most other routes at the grade in White Rock.
The first bolt is pretty useless - it should have been moved about four feet up onto a solid looking portion of the roof. Mental crux is reaching the high second bolt after some tricky moves. Breath easier, then fire through a not-so-obvious sequence that moves left and back right to a bomber rest near the third bolt. Then climb the fun, relatively clean 5.9ish face to the chains.
Try not to grab either crack.
Left of Box Overhang Left
6 bolts to a bolted anchor.
Mar 21, 2009
This was the first route I ever bolted, with Jason Chen. It's a total squeeze job, and not sustained at all. That said, if anyone wants to move the first bolt, feel free.
|By J tot|
From: Tempe, AZ
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
I think the crux move is enjoyable and bouldery, and the top section feels very remote and alone in that your belayer can't see you, the bolts are a little run out, and the chalk washes off.
Grade this route based on the crux and people should appreciate it a little more. Right at the upper end of 5.11