Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Eli Helmuth 5/08 |
Page Views: | 2,268 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Eli Helmuth on Jun 2, 2008 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
This crack pitch diagonals in from the right to join the bolted anchor of the first pitch of the Caldwell route, Dulcinea on the Renaissance Wall. It starts on easy ground to a very thin crack which starts the diagonal bit of climbing. RPs protect the first 12a crux which eases off before joining the big ledge/flake which is the far right side of the same ledge which Dulcinea touches on its left side. The ledge is a welcome rest but also detracts from the star quality of the climb.
Now for the meat of the route: With slings on top of the large horn, step-up into a left-hand undercling and reach right to decent crimps. After this exciting start, great gear through a steep crack eases the fear of slapping an angling rail on opposing slopers before and a crux move to a pod where RPs can be found followed by bigger gear and some pumpy climbing to the anchor.
This route took me more than a few attempts to master, partly due to cleaning while climbing, maybe due to the dirt it felt harder than compared ascents of The Wasp, Renaissance Wall, and El Camino Real which I found all to be much easier. Grade confirmation (or denial) will be interesting to see as I tried this pitch too many times to have an idea of the onsight grade?
The Renaissance Wall is likely the most overlooked of the best walls in the Front Range....
Now for the meat of the route: With slings on top of the large horn, step-up into a left-hand undercling and reach right to decent crimps. After this exciting start, great gear through a steep crack eases the fear of slapping an angling rail on opposing slopers before and a crux move to a pod where RPs can be found followed by bigger gear and some pumpy climbing to the anchor.
This route took me more than a few attempts to master, partly due to cleaning while climbing, maybe due to the dirt it felt harder than compared ascents of The Wasp, Renaissance Wall, and El Camino Real which I found all to be much easier. Grade confirmation (or denial) will be interesting to see as I tried this pitch too many times to have an idea of the onsight grade?
The Renaissance Wall is likely the most overlooked of the best walls in the Front Range....
Location
Starts 30' down and right of Dulcinea which is the first bolted pitch you come to on the Renaissance Wall. Rappel 25 meters from the Dulcinea anchor or finish up on the 12a classic second pitch of Dulcinea for a fully trad two pitch line. Or improve the effort by linking both into the ultimate 55m, 12+ crack route at Lumpy?
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