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Climb the face just left of Masuko. There are some long reaches between pockets on this one.
|By Sam Stephens|
Dec 18, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Looks like a foot broke off under the roof a while ago, don't know for certain but there's one move that shut us down pretty hard.
|By Tino Fiumara|
Nov 26, 2012
I was on it this weekend and there seemed to be a right foot missing in the crux throw. You can see the 'new rock' and the fracture lines. Been on a lot of 11c in my day and that has more of a 12a feel to it..unless I missed some key beta.
otherwise the left foot is solid and the right smears under the roof. A right foot there would make it feel hard 11.
anyone else want to confirm this?
Jan 14, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a
Stiff for the grade, and the hardest of the 11s on the same wall for sure -- Bender is easier at a solid 11d.
The 4th bolt is almost always bearing a bail biner or draw. Hang a long one here to prevent the rope end gate from opening against the lip of the roof below.
Oct 14, 2013
Went for the RP this past weekend (10/12/2013) only to find that someone has apparently done some remodeling in the last 7 months.
The rail used for the crux reach/dyno has been opened up from above and deepened. It looks like a chunk of rock was removed just to the right of the slopey pocket. I couldn't say for sure, but the knob for the left foot there doesn't look the same either.
The opened rail doesn't make the crux move any easier, but it sure does make the short traverse to get set up for it a lot easier.
I hope there was a safety reason for the modifications.