|Sugarloaf, East Face
Fun and easy crack climbing leads to a groove with a thin crack and tricky gear. Surmount that with some layback moves and a couple of stem rests. Above that climb the low angle slab via flakes that lead either left towards Grand Illusion or right towards the gully, depending on your anticipated descent route.
On the right side of the east face below the large roof of Grand Illusion, just left of a gully. Climb some blocks up and left to a left facing corner/crack system to the crux dihedral. There is a nice looking crack left of this that also leads to the crux dihedral.
We descended from two beefy bolts up and left from the top of the climb and down and right from Grand Illusion. You can reach the ground with two ropes or you can get down with one rope via a sling transfer at the Telesis anchors. There are also anchors up and right from Dominion that, according the the guide, you can rap from with a 60m rope.
All trad except for the anchors. 1 set nuts from brass to 1". At least one set cams from micro to blue Camalot. You can use a bigger cam in the wide crack, but it's easy there.
|By W. Spaller|
Nov 17, 2007
Very reasonable for the grade and includes some awesome hand jams and lie back moves. Fun route and worth doing.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Feb 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
There is a less-traveled left variation that follows an right arching crack before joining the crux. It starts a bit rotten, but then there's quality climbing in the 8-9 range with some great wide hands jamming. I'm told it's more sustained than the usual path, but I haven't yet done both to compare. It probably adds 15' or more to the climb too. Should get done more, imo.
I found the crux on this climb to be quality.
edit: I climbed the usual path of this route and it was pretty good. Also, probably as sustained as the left variation. I would recommend either approach. In fact, you must do both!
|By aaron hope|
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Apr 19, 2011
Great climb. Although I agree with the 10a rating, there are great rests to place gear throughout the climb so it feels less committing.
|By Josh Cameron|
Aug 29, 2011
I also found the same thing. Easy to start, then a few 5.8/5.9 moves to get into the steeper corner with the thin crack, which increases in difficulty the higher you climb. An acrobatic type of lieback gets you out of the corner when the crack peters out and onto the right. There's a knob for your right foot which helps tremendously. For me, 10a is a very fair rating for the crack in the corner.
|By Phil Esra|
Apr 15, 2012
A little soft for the grade, I thought; definitely a great line. From the rap anchor to the right, a 60m gets you to an easy scramble in the gully on the right.
|By Evan Riley|
From: San Francisco, CA
Apr 29, 2012
Beware! A 70m does not exactly get you to the ground from the anchors to the left. You can rap to a ledge 20' off the deck and down climb 5.6 to get to the ground.
|By Ryan Nevius|
From: The Range of Light
Sep 17, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gear: Single set of cams from .5" to 3" and medium stoppers will sew the crack up.
Rap: One rap with a single 60m rope from the chains (3 of them) to the right of the route, or two raps from the anchors to the left of the route.
This felt like benchmark Yosemite 5.9, but YMMV.