Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,432 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jon Nelson on May 19, 2013 · Updates
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The second free route to be put up on Earwax Wall, earlier went by a different, somewhat violent name.

Follows a crack up the face, then goes over roof at right-facing corner, and then follows the crack up and right (crux). Lots of face holds going up to the roof, the crack often just serving as a place for pro. A slight reach at the roof to a sinker hand jam, and then the crack thins out. The hardest part is above the roof, so save some of that hatred of Helene to channel your energies here.

If the part below the roof is wet, you can climb into the route from the Black Flag route just to the right, joining Helene at the roof.

Location Suggest change

Left side of Earwax Wall. Starts on top of left edge of big block resting against the wall.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 2". Had three fixed pieces. The pins above the roof may be gone, but small cams should work.

Photos

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