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The Watchtower
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barnacle S 
Billy Goat's Gruff S 
Decades S 
Domestic Tension S 
Fire Woman S 
Let's Pretend S 
Matilda S 
Step Right Up S 
Sun King S 
To Kill a Chalkingbird S 
Unknown S 
Wasted and Wounded S 

Domestic Tension 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Hansen
Page Views: 490
Submitted By: jtwalter on Aug 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Aaron Child on Domestic Tension.

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the warmup route at The Watchtower for aspiring 5.11 climbers. Domestic Tension climbs up and to the right through 5 bolts to an anchor shared with Billy Goat's Gruff (.11a to the right).

While not difficult, the traverse can feel kind of tricky. It makes it easier if you stay low on the traverse going through the third bolt. The crux is just before the last bolt toward the end of the traverse and the transition to the small ledge just before the chains.

Location 

2nd route on the wall going from right to left.

Protection 

7 bolts plus the chains.


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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Oct 2, 2007

I thought this was considerably easier than 5.10a: I thought it was more like 5.8. I mantled onto a ledge and then traversed to the fourth bolt, maybe if you traverse below the ledge and then go up it's harder. Also, I clipped six bolts (the fifth was the penultimate bolt on Billy Goat's Gruff, but it was right in front of me).

Also, only one star from me for this route. But my partner said, "I liked that route. It was a great warmup." Of course, he likes anything.