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 ADVANCED
Cheap Wine Wall
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Boston T 
Dome Driver S 
Hartford T,S 
Kracken, The T 
MD 20/20 T 
Newark T,S 
Ripple S 
TJ Swan S 

Dome Driver 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
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Page Views: 884
Submitted By: Joe Coplan on Jul 6, 2011

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Description 

P1: Start between Hartford and MD 20/20. Follow face up to large horizontal crack with tree. Bolted anchor above.

P2: Traverse up left past one bolt to a large ledge with bolted anchors.

P3: Follow bolts (some are spinners) up slab staying slightly left until bolted anchor.

Descent: to rappel P3 a 30 meter rappel is not sufficient. You can climb to the top of the dome and walk down but rappelling would be quicker/easier with a rope long enough.


Protection 

Bolts



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By Superclimber
Jan 21, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

CONDITION REPORT 

ATTENTION: You CAN NOT rap or lower off this route with a single 60 Meter rope.

By Superclimber
Jan 30, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The above description isn't entirely accurate. The route is as follows.

1. Start on the nicely featured water streak below the tree in the corner of the overlap. This streak which often stays wet for some time after it rains is in fact found between Hartford and MD 20/20. There is one bolt in the lower water streak before the overlap. Next wiggle in behind the tree (try to be gentle, this tree takes a beating) and mount the overlap in the corner behind the tree. Pull a couple easy, but exposed moves to gain the second bolt which is above the overlap. This bolt protects a few 5.7 moves that some people complain are sandbagged. Continue up to the obvious double bolted anchors found in Beer Can Alley.

2. At this point Dome Driver and Hartford cross each other. Dome Driver trends left and Hartford is the line of bolts to the right. To stay on Dome Driver move left from the anchors crossing crunchy and flaky low angle rock to a third bolt which is painted to match the rock. After clipping the bolt head straight up to the ledge and the thin flake above. You can get a limited amount of reliable pro behind the flake as you follow it up. Above the flake you will come to a ledge with a quality horizontal #2/3 placement at your feet. At this point you are crossing the Boston line. Boston trends right and Dome Driver trends left. Finally, if you are following the classic line, run it out on the nicely featured low angle black streak to your left. Belay at the double bolted anchors.

FYI: The upper black streak above where Dome Driver crosses Boston now has bolts on it. These bolts belong to Kracken. They are there if you want to clip them, but not part of Dome Driver.