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Dolomite Spire

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Campground Route T 
Dolofright T 
Kor Route T 

Dolomite Spire 


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 19, 2003
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Dolomite Spire and Lighthouse Tower as seen from t...

Description 

Dolomite Spire is the finger-like spire between the Lighthouse and the Big Bend Butte, directly across from the Big Bend Recreation Area. It's about 300' tall looking at it from the river side, but only 225' from the other side. There are only two routes (that I know of) on the tower - the Kor Route (5.8 C2) and Dolofright (5.11d R).


Getting There 

Park at the Buffalo Chip Boulder (a large boulder immediately across from the towers). Cross the street and find a cairned climbers' trail to the base of the Lighthouse Tower. Do a short pitch to the notch on the right side of the Lighthouse (one or two 5.7 moves), then walk behind the Lighthouse to Dolomite Spire. Ascend one of two or three easy (5.8 or so) crack systems (choose whichever looks best) to the higher notch between Lighthouse and Dolomite. Begin the routes from a nice little ledge here.


Climbing Season


3 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Dolomite Spire:
Kor Route   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2     Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 300'   
Dolofright   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in Dolomite Spire

Featured Route For Dolomite Spire
Looking across to Dolofright from Lighthouse Tower.

Dolofright 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a UT : Moab Area : ... : Dolomite Spire
Dolofright: a two pitch face climb up the blunt arete along the right side of Dolomite Spire as seen from the road.Begin from a comfortable ledge on the notch between Lighthouse Tower and Dolomite Spire (see approach directions for Dolomite). P1: Hard right off the deck. Climb up and right along an overhanging bulge (protected by three pins) using incut crimps, clip a bolt, and step left along a horizontal to the arete. If you found these moves difficult, get ready. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for Dolomite Spire
Photos of Dolomite Spire Slideshow Add Photo
Lighthouse, Dolomite, and Big Bend Butte from the top of Podium Spire
Lighthouse, Dolomite, and Big Bend Butte from the ...
Comments on Dolomite Spire Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 23, 2004

Kor route good.

By Joe Forrester
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Mar 1, 2006

This route was really pretty impressive. Tri-cams were useful on the traverse pitch, pitch 4 if I remember correctly.

By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Dec 15, 2012

You can rap off the summit to the ground with two 70m ropes, the pull wasn't bad as you can doctor the knot a bit up top and walk downhill to pull.

By g.miller
Apr 3, 2013

whats the easiest way to access the kor route? Is it possible to hike in from behind?

By Matt Pickren
Apr 4, 2013

Yes, it is possible to hike in from around the back. To do so, park at the group camping and follow the main wash until even with the Lighthouse/ main butte notch and then go up to Dolomite. This is a dog friendly approach, but the easiest is definitely from the front and climbing the 5.7 approach pitch.