Über popular. Big lock-offs on monos and other small fingery pockets are the name of the game here. Climb through a small bulge at 20ft, this quickly leads to the fingery and technical crux. Power through this short and stout crux and then make a few more difficult moves to the left and through a small overlap to easier climbing and the anchor. Originally rated 13d, this route is now the benchmark ceuse 13c. It's possible that a couple of the pockets were 'enhanced' on this one, but i can't say for sure...
towards the left side of the sector. the name is written at its base.
bolts to a fixed anchor
|By Jonathan Siegrist|
From: his truck
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Outstanding route. Some relatively easy climbing leads to a great rest right of the third bolt. From here the route turns up and resistant crimping leads to a punchy back-to-back lock off crux. Step out left above here for a decent rest before a delicate edging crux leads you right up to the chains. Unlike the description above, there are no monos on this route, and the upper bit just a little below the chains is where most people take flight on red point.