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 ADVANCED
Third Flatiron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1911 Gully T 
Blazing Biners T,S 
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 
Dog's Head Cutoff T 
East Face (Standard) T 
East Face Left T 
Extra Point T 
Falcon's Fracture T 
Friday's Folly T 
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 
Funny Games T,TR 
Greenman's Crack T,TR 
Holier than Thou S 
Inner Sanctum T 
Northwest Passage T 
Pentaprance T 
Ph.D. Roof T 
Rite Of Spring T 
Saturday's Folly T 
Sayonara T,S 
Shoyu State S 
South Chimney T 
Southwest Chimney T 
Super Woo T 
Thin Crack T 
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 
Third World Zone T 
Unknown (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 
Waiting For Columbus T,S 
West Door T 
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 
Winky Woo T 
Wrongs of Fall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Dog's Head Cutoff 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c R

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 816
Submitted By: Warren Teissier on Oct 13, 2001

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Warren Teissier starting the E. Face traverse towa...

  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This short but exposed route enables you to reach the top of the Dog's Head from the bottom of the Slip Slide ledge (top of the Southwest Chimney).

    This is a really cool route but is unprotected and traverses a portion of rotten rock. Due to the traversing nature of the route and the fact that you traverse to the right (above the bottom of slip slide ledge), a fall could have serious consequences, even if the one piece holds....

    Begin some 40 feet up the Slip Slide ledge under a fierce overhang.

    Scramble to the lip on the South side of the Slip Slide ledge and bridge the overhang by reaching up to a one foot solution hole above the overhang. The hold is great and will enable you to climb up the overhang and onto the shallow ramp that runs above the overhang.

    Traverse right (down) the rotten ramp for some 10 feet find a cam placement at your feet, take a deep breath and traverse onto the steep East face for 30 feet and onto a huge chockstone near the top of the Dog's Head.

    From here, you can continue to the top....

    Protection 

    An Orange Allien (or similar cam) is the only placement for the whole route


    Comments on Dog's Head Cutoff Add Comment
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    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 3, 2006

    You can also do this route by climbing a nasty looking slot right of this description. It's only about a foot wide, and maybe easy, but looks unpleasant. I think there is some description in one of the old guides about someone getting stuck in it!