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Electric Avenue
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Dogleg T 
Electric Avenue T 
Fido S 
Frau Bluka S 
Same Place Different Girlfriend S 
Spot S 
Young Frankenstein S 

Dogleg 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Reid Dowdle, 1984
Season: Morning shade
Page Views: 110
Submitted By: Boissal on Apr 30, 2013

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Description 

On paper this route is a good warm-up for the crag. In practice however it might keep you busy for an hour and leave you bloody and pumped.

Scramble up dirty ledges to the base of a fat bulge split by a hand crack. Place gear, formulate a plan and commence the battle. The jams are slightly flaring and the lack of feet will leave you puzzled. Don't despair, keep an eye on the face for edges and you'll eventually get a foot established in the crack. From there it's smooth sailing past a block to a lower angle lichen-covered section then a left dogleg with interesting sculpted features. Follow the crack through a short vertical section and build and anchor.

Expect some amount of frustration as the rating seems to be an average of the long second section of the route (5.7ish) and the very short first few moves (5.harder)... Being good at crack climbing will help.

Location 

There is a small pullout for Electric Avenue about 150' before the Elephant Rock parking lot. Dogleg is invisible from there, it's tucked behind the imposing W facing overhangs and marks the separation between the red patina and a green slab to the left. Once at the base the dogleg crack is really obvious.

You can walk off along the N ridge and downclimb a block-filled chimney back to the base. I'm not sure if better options exist.
Using the anchors of Spot to the S for a rappel is possible but a bit spooky: from the top of the tower downclimb a short low angle slab to a flat spot, plug a #2 in the top crack of Electric Avenue to anchor yourself and reach below the lip for the chains.

Protection 

A set of nuts and cams to a #4 with doubles from .75 to #3. It might be overkill but it will leave you with gear for the anchor (partner used a #1, #2 and #3).
Some long slings as the route wanders a lot (double length is nice for the apex of the crack).
Tape gloves, long sleeves.


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